As my foraging through Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley continues to uncover more discoveries, the terroir of the Anjou and Saumur regions gain more clarity and focus on my palate as the understanding of these appellations grows with every cork I pull.
(Chateau de Saumur)
As I approached the last flight of Chenins from the Anjou and Saumur section of my cellar. My excitement and enthusiasm continues to grow as I compare and contrast each offering as the week evolves and the wines along with them. I typically go through two blind flights with each grouping of wines, the first one within 24hrs of opening them and then another 48-72hrs down the road. So far the results have been consistent with each flight, give or take a point here and there, and one occasion where the VA aka volatile acidity in the wine seemed to overtake it but overall its a nice opportunity to get to know the tendencies of these wines and to better grasp each expression in all of its stages.
As I stated in my previous Two Anjou vs Two Saumurs tasting, I was very excited to work my way up the ladder of offerings and these four wines are among my final crescendo of Chenins that I was eager to taste from the Anjou and Saumur regions. The exception to that being a choice bottle or two along with the highly esteemed Savenniers appellation and a couple sweet wines from along the Layon River that I haven't quite decided on the occasion to sip. But for now lets introduce this stellar group of chenins!
the Lineup
Chateau Yvonne Saumur Blanc 2022
Benoit Courault Gilbourg Blanc 2021
Chateau Bois Brincon Terre de Gres Anjou Blanc 2020
Thierry Germain L'Insolite Saumur 2023
(pictured left to right)
Poured blind and evaluated on aroma, palate and overall drinking experience.
My Thoughts and the Results.
Thierry Germain L'Insolite Saumur 2023 (94pts)
Aromas of wet slate, beeswax, grilled pears, dried apple, savory spice, cardamom, thyme, lemon oil & wildflower honey.
Palate has focused acidity balanced by a supple weight. Layered apple, pear and quince fruit with undertones of tropical glimpses and swirling layers of citrus. Lemon balm, lemon thyme, arugula, beeswax and complex minerality that leans on limestone and granite dust.
Lengthy palate with harmonious balance between bright angular acidity and austere softness.
Chateau Bois Brincon Terre de Gres Anjou Blanc 2020 (93pts)
Aromas of unripe stonefruits, crunchy apple, tight citrus, dried straw and nuanced hints of dried mango, honeydew melon, springwater, wet stone.
Palate has some old neutral wood unifying it with just a whispered presence as the freshness and minerality shine. Fleshy crisp apple, lemon peel, sorrel, pithy orange zest, beeswax and wildflowers.
Bright refreshing wine with just a touch of austereness adding complexity throughout.
Chateau Yvonne Saumur Blanc 2022 (90pts)
Aromas of smoked apples, musk melon, pineapple spears, wet wool, dandelion blossoms, spearmint and soft baking spice.
Palate is fleshy baked orchard fruits, bitter almond, wet wool, slightly oxidative bruised apple, black trumpets, white flowers, oak spice, wet gravel and wood ash.
Definitely more evocative and austere than vibrant with stewed fruit complexity mingling with earthy mushroom and composted fruits.
Benoit Courault Gilbourg Blanc 2021 (89pts)
Aromas of juicy fruit gum, orange marmalade, lemon curd, grilled pineapple, crushed stone, candied fennel, marzipan and a flinty smoke accent.
Palate has a nice balance of weight and acidity with layered complexity of flavors. Apple skins, baked blood orange, cumin, asparagus, grilled pears, banana, lemon thyme, beeswax.
Cohesive wine with rustic appeal but loses a bit of complexity from nose to tongue but finds harmony within its contrasts.
As the spring weather does what it does here in Maine, my focus has not waned and the vast bottles of Loire Valley delights I have cracked has only just begun. It has been a hectic few weeks full of wine shows and seminars as Spring is always the busy time of new vintages to taste, portfolio additions to consider and the floodgates begin to crack as the importers and distributors start making more frequent appearances. The tariff talks have been front and center of a lot of conversations while the ground continues to thaw and the future of trade as we know it dangles in the wind, we can only urge you to go grab a few bottles of your favorite wines and try to find a touch of focus and contemplation during these choppy times.
