Easing back into the Cabernet Franc side of the Loire Project, after we recently navigated through the Anjou & Saumur, leaving a few notable stones and bottles unturned for the moment.
It is time to explore the appellation of Saumur-Champigny!
Saumur-Champigny Vineyard
(image courtesy of istock)
As you can see from this map above we are headed just northeast of Anjou and Saumur, though technically still located in both as a sub appellation, we slowly meander further up the Loire River where Saumur-Champigny is located. Tucked right into a slight bend of the river, where the land plateaus and flattens, opening to one of the warmest spots in all the Loire. Saumur-Champigny which means "fields of fire" is well known for its red wines. These red wines are most commonly 100% Cabernet Franc but the region does allow up to 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Pineau d'Aunis. Saumur-Champigny got its AOP designation in 1957 and today is home to over 100 different growers spread over 1,500 hectares. There is a great diversity of soil types through these vineyards, similar to neighboring Saumur, but here lies a bedrock predominately made of limestone or tuffeau as its locally known. The tuffeau is the foundation throughout the appellation. Its what the caves that house the cellars and sometimes even the homes of its residents reign supreme. The overall landscape of Champigny is more flat with much thinner layers of the alluvial gravel top soils compared to those of Chinon & Bourgueil. This thinner top soil is highly sought after for planting Chenin, but the white grape are not favored in Saumur-Champigny. Reds that can possess a supple fruity quality with bright acidity and substance are the majority of wines produced here!
Clotilde Legrand Les Terrages 2019
Chateau du Hureau Lisagathe 2014
Chateau du Hureau Tuffe 2021 (375ml)
Fabien Duveau Les Menais 2021
Chateau du Hureau Tuffe 2021 (375ml) (90pts)
Aromas have a dark umami driven red fruit base, tart cherry, white pepper, herbaceous tomato leaf, potpourri of violets and roses.
Palate is a mixture of ripe field berries, composted forest, thyme, sage, lovage, tart apple skins, crunchy red fruit and berry compote lingers with structured earthiness and silky tannins.
Delicious in every aspect, yet highly contemplative and complex interplay of dense fruit and mysterious earthy herbaceousness showing glimpses of dark composted earth and floral complexity.
Chateau du Hureau Lisagathe 2014 (88pts)
Aromas of musty red fruit, dried cherry, apple skins, licorice, thyme, composted forest, cedar and hints of frankincense and graphite.
Palate is layered with soft plump blueberry, blackberry, mossy bark, black plum skins, orange pith and a floral earthy backbone that integrates nicely and lengthens the finish nicely.
Silky body with dense earth intertwined with harmonious layers of fruity acidity and herbal earthen spice.
Clotilde Legrand Les Terrages 2019 (85pts)
Aromas of candied red fruit, soft vanilla, dough sugar cookie, red clay and reserved hints of composted forest floor, black raspberry, raspberry leaf tea, dried cherry, cedar and rosehips.
Palate is earthy but bright with macerated black raspberry acidity evolving with mysterious layers of earthy licorice, unripe alpine strawberry, rosemary, wet moss and
Easy on the palate, varietal correct, just not as complex as the other offerings here.
Fabien Duveau Les Menais 2021 (86pts)
Aromas are mossy tree bark, dried cherry, cedar chips, apple skins and a light mint kissed rosemary warmth.
Palate is fresher and brighter than the nose offered with ripe red fruits, crunchy gala apple, berry compote, grape soda, blood orange and plum skin linger with a touch of herbal hints but way more restrained in the earthy undertones.
Soft inviting wine with a velvety structure, guided by ripe focused red fruits and hints of earthy mystery but more subdued than most of the others.
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