This past week we continued down the Chenin Blanc road that we finished on in our last post. Pouring a blind, composed of two Anjou based Chenin Blancs and two others from Saumur. As you can see in the map below the lines of the regions are quite blurry, ebbing and flowing from riverbank to riverbank, with sprinkles of sub appellations like the Coteaux du Layon hugging the Layon River with sweet wines and Savennieres to the north. Anjou, like I stated in the previous post can be somewhat confusing but when you condense it down, it really is just a rich variety of soil, in a landscape of vignerons dedicated to the making the best wines possible on the soil type they inhabit. Those variables along with being the "in-between" zone from the maritime Atlantic ocean influenced eastern Loire to the continental climate in the west side of the Loire make is a rich region for producers pushing the boundaries and embracing the nuances Anjou and its storied sub appellations have to offer!
As we continue to research, investigate and taste our way up the ladder of Chenin Blancs from Anjou we present this weeks 4 Wines of Loire.
The Wines and Blind Notes in order of preference.
CLOTILDE LEGRAND A L'ECARTE SAUMUR BLANC 2021 (88PTS)
Aromas of baked apple, limestone, straw and almond blossoms.
Palate is bright and angular with lots of citrus on the front initially. As it opens and evolves the midpalate fleshes out and a richer more mineral driven wine emerges with a complex balance of stonefruit and nuances that roll into the finish with grace. Lemon peel, beeswax, dried chamomile, rustic apple, old wood, crushed stone and a touch of herbal savory hints linger in the finish. Complex yet inviting with just the right amount of austereness to balance out the fruit.
CHATEAU SOUCHERIE ANJOU BLANC 2023 (86PTS)
Subtle crisp clean citrus aromas up front with gentle savory accents of bouillon cube, dandelion and hay that open into green apple, floral dry grass, lemon and a touch of sea urchin. Palate is apple skins, fresh citrus zest, wild flowers, spring water, wet stone, saffron and tart apple. Fresh bright and springy wine with interesting complexity that adds depth and intrigue. Clean and bright but underlying nuances that keep it interesting throughout!
EMMANUEL HAGET ANITYA SAUMUR BLANC2019 (85PTS)
Complex aromas of campfire kissed pears, wool blankets layered with earthy rye grain, wet stone, beeswax, green apple skins, nutmeg and unripe stonefruit. Interesting wine with lots of austere character that masks some of the ripe autumn orchard fleshy fruit on the front, but as the fruit emerges so does the acidity that continues to slowly build into the finish. Stoney fruit with glimpses of wet wool and barnyard, apple skin, mustard greens, earthy mushroom, composted orchard, rustic rye, spearmint and lemon balm. Some aspects of this wine I absolutely loved but just lacked a touch of cohesion to bring the whole experience together.
NICOLAS REAU ATTENTION CHENIN MERCHANT ANJOU 2023 (80PTS)
Aromas of tart apple cider, limestone, wet straw and citrus zest.
Palate follows and is very cideresque. Juicy apple flesh, baked pear, juicy fruit gum, light fennel and warm spice glimpses that linger with citrus peel zest and minerality on the finish. Easy drinker, lacks real complexity and structure but as a cider fan, I enjoyed it.
After sipping these over the course of a few days, I spent a little time organizing the Loire library of cellar bottles and trying to find more rabbit holes of information on the distinction between Anjou whites and Saumur whites. My findings have been limited and most information glosses past Saumur describing it as a bridge from Anjou to Saumur Champigny and talk about how it is also the heart of sparkling wines of the Loire. Personally after sipping through a handful of them so far in this deep dive, my observations are that Anjou Blancs tend to express themselves on the linear, leaner side with citrus and white floral crispness and the Saumur Blancs tend to have more depth and roundness and lean on the more austere and fleshy apple & pear notes. With a round of heavy hitting wines chilling in the fridge for this week expect another round with higher prices and hopefully more mind blowing results, not that any of these were showing poorly, I am just excited to be moving up the price ladder and am optimistic that some of this weeks offerings will really wow me!
In the meantime I was finally able to track down a few bottles of sweet chenin based wines from Anjou.
DOMAINE DE CLAYOU COTEAUX DU LAYON 2023 (84PTS)
Viscous body with long slow tears sticking to the glass.
Aromas of honey dipped stonefruit, lemon peel, dried straw, mango and pineapple spears.
Palate follows with bright acidity interwoven with sweet lush fruit. Sweet, yes... but never gets too cloying with layers of citrus brightness to contrast the round honey dipped tropical notes. Soft botrytis nuances linger with depth and interest. Solid sweet wine for right around $20.
I will talk more about the sweet side of Chenin as we move into the depths of Anjou and I let some recently acquired older vintage Moulin Touchais offerings from 2006 and 1997 settle in the cellar.
Below is another reference for where in the Loire you can find the wines sipped above.
Thanks for all of the new readers that seem to be making their way over to the Bottle Forager.
And for those not as enthralled in the Loire Valley wines as I am just yet, I will have some more whiskey content and cider talk coming soon as I get acquainted with some recently acquired bottles in the cellar and have a tasting with a few whiskey heads happening at the end of this week.
Till then, cheers!
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