Where O'where, is Jasnieres?

Easing back into my deep dive into the Loire Project, I was excited and curious about this particular region of the Loire Valley named Jasnieres.  I was not familiar with any wines from here with an exception of a chenin that I have enjoyed from the broader appellation of the Coteaux du Loire. 

After an exhausted search of Maine's distribution channels and local wine shops,  I was able to acquire just 2 bottles. One a single appellation Jasnieres from Pascal Janvier, the same producer who made the Coteaux du Loire wine I just alluded too, along with a unique bottle of Domaine Gigou I found lurking on the shelves of Brown Trading in Portland, ME. It seems much of the information available on this northern most wine growing region in the Loire seems to be a small paragraph that eludes to being a Chenin Blanc dominant region where people like Rabelais and King Henry enjoyed drinking from. Much like the rest of the Loire Valley the soil seems to consist of a combination of clay, limestone, sand and flint. In fact Janvier also has a wine designated as a Cuvee du Silex which along with the Jasnieres pictured here is grown on 35-40yr old vines. The difference is this wine list soil types as clay and limestone here, where the Cuvee du Silex also has vines in the flintier heavy vineyard sites. In contrast the Domaine Gigou is from 100yr old vines in Jasnieres, hand harvested in their most prized vineyard site of Saint Jacques, which soil is listed as composed of silex, limestone, clay and tuffeau. Distinct differences and similarities in these wines had me excited to evaluate them... however after pouring I quickly realized they would be much different styles of wine. The Janvier is strictly stainless and obviously a fresh vintage, where the Gigou sees wood for 5-6 months through initial fermentation and then some battonage in barrels for another 5-6 months. So finding the "soul" of Jasnieres in these wines would be a little more complicated, but none the less, it was an thought provoking dichotomy of two very distinct wine making methods and it was a pleasure and a learning experience to sip them side by side... ok lets get to the tasting!

(As you can see in the map, Jasnieres is a tiny appellation in the northern most reaches of the Loire, surrounded by Coteaux du Loir and Coteaux du Vendomois.)

Pascal Janvier Jasnieres 2024 (88pts)

Pours a light pale golden color with precision clarity and some light green reflections.

Aromas are wet flint alongside bright clean mineral water, honeysuckle, granite dust, steely citrus, soft guava, blanched almonds and cotton candy grapes,

Palate is tart Rhode Island Greening apple, stoney granite dust with flint, grilled lemon, cucamelon, guava, tangelo oils and tulsi basil linger with a soft lemon thyme that ebbs and flows with the minerality on the finish. Nice dance between sour tartness and sweet ripeness all held together by the cohesive focused minerality.

Domaine Gigou Clos Saint Jacques Jasnieres 2019 (87pts)

Aromas of smoked pear, flint, cotton candy, green orchid, vanilla and toasted oak.

Palate is supple and weighty with a aura of soft vanilla mingling with baked apple, nutmeg, marzipan.

The wood aspect really eases the minerality of the wine and warms the fruit. Layers of baking spice, floral honey and hints of lavender and chamomile. The flavors are complex and inviting and I could see this wine being a real hit with the oaky California chardonnay drinkers. I can appreciate this wine for what it is but heavily oaked wines, especially whites, are not typically my favorite sippers. I would like to say this wine is quite well made and would be a great out of the box wine to share with someone who finds oaky wines like California chardonnay pleasurable.

Needless to say these wines have peaked my interest in Jasnieres, there is something unique about these wines and the way they harmonize the  bright acidity and minerality with an opulence and tropical fruit ripeness that is unique and intriguing. 

A Tale of Two Rieslings. 004 (JJ Prum Edition)

 

A sunny afternoon of gathering with friends led to nice comparison of these two shining examples of Joh. Jos. Prum rieslings. Both offerings originating from the same vintage and the same steep hills of the Wehlener Sonnenuhr in Mosel, Germany. The steep hills of this vineyard site produce some of the most fragrant, elegant wines of the world. The Wehlen has little to no top soil and the landscape consists primarily of weathered and broken shards of blue slate. Its these stoney shallow rock slopes that are the foundation to these delicate acid driven wines.

(image taken from German travel site)

Speaking of wines... lets get into these:

Joh. Jos. Prum  Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese 2010 (92pts)

Pours a medium golden color with some warm brassy reflections and long streaking tears.

Aromas are vibrant with apricot, madarin oil, lavenderm saffron, bruised nectarine and fleshy fuji apple.

Palate follows with unctous stonefruit, tart felshy apple, earthy saffron spice interwoven with floral honey evolving into a lengthy bitter citrus pith.

Sour oranges, sugared marmalade, golden raisins, wet slate.

Soft yet explosive. Great balance and depth of bass and treble with the only buzz appearing in the high tones where the bitter floral and sour citrus aren't quite sure who is rhythm and who is lead.

Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese 2010 (94pts)

Pours a light golden color with pearl & green reflections and translucent oily tears.

Aromas are dried mango, powdered sugar, pineapple and garden breezes of eucalyptus, clove, fennel and a glimpse of diesel on the deep inhale.

Palate is lush and silky on the tongue, bright cheek quenching acid stokes the minerality that emerges from back to front of the mouth.

Unripe pineapple, lime pith, wet crushed stone, dew soaked lemon balm, bright flashes of guava and passionfruit reveal themselves along with some tart blueberry flesh, honeysuckle, yuzu and quince.

Fruit symphony with lazer focused acidity and a deliciously cohesive crescendo!

Dropping Francs on Cabernet Francs.

Back at it with the Loire Project, as I sip through the last box of cabernet francs accumulated for the project, along with a few still aging gracefully, there were 4 bottles that remained whose cost was a bit more than the average bottle from the project. Not only did I have these four set aside for a special occasion, I also noticed they were from 4 different appellations within the Loire and decided it would    be fun to bring them along for our most recent blind tasting night and share them with the group.

the Line Up

Chateau Yvonne Le Beaumeray 2019

Clau de Nell Anjou 2020

Amirault Le Clos Des Quaterons Saint Nicolas 2019

P. Corbineau Les Clos Vin de France 2021

We poured them one by one, single blind and quickly assessed them as a group.

The next day I sat down and analyzed them again blindly and here are... 

My Thoughts

Chateau Yvonne Le Beaumeray 2019 (95pts) 

Aromas of fresh raspberry, tart wild strawberry, cedar, rosemary, apple skins, violets, olive, moist earth, graphite and tar. 

Palate has bright acidity seamlessly interwoven with a silky body and layers of flavors that unfold with grace on the wines journey. Complex and thought provoking but also harmonious and easy to understand. The interaction of youthful acidity and lively fruit set the stage on this wine and the backdrop of herbal accents and rich focused earth bring everything together for me. Stunning wine! 

Clau de Nell Anjou 2020 (94pts)

Aromas of woodsy cranberry, plum skin, cherry & bramble, accented by tarragon, juniper and a soft flinty warmness that emerges and evolves with nuances of black tea on the deep inhale.

Palate is velvet with dark extracted fruit permeating the flavors as the fruit builds the complexity follows, gently massaging the tongue with density and structure. Layers of red fruits drape the palate as counterpoints of herbal woodsy mystery lead the palate into a lengthy finish.

Amirault Le Clos Des Quaterons Saint Nicolas 2019 (89pts)

Aromas of red fruits, cherry skins, autumn leaves, dried floral potpourri and composted earth. 

Palate follows with classic cabernet franc appeal. A sound wine that hits all the marks I love about about Loire wine. Just being open next to the two wines above seem to shadow this in the tasting. 

Patrick Corbineau Les Clos Vin de France 2021 (70pts)

Aromas of balsamic, burnt popcorn, horseblanket and twizzler candy.

Palate follows with ketchup, over extracted fruit, oxidized funk, light spritz on the tongue. Why would you do this to cabernet franc? Why would you recommend this wine to me for this project... why did I spend so much money on this? Lesson learned, suspicions confirmed.

What a fun line up to share and experience, with the exception of the Corbineau!

Stay tuned for more sipping, musing and bottle foraging.

Collective Sips.

Collective Sips.

As my recent days and nights have been consumed and spent sipping unexplored producers and appellations, visiting the dusty shelves of bottle shops, all the while scouring distribution lists and importer preorder offers, email lists, online auctions and internet forums.

The real pleasure is never foraging that sought after bottle, although it does come with a fleeting rush of accomplishment, the real pleasure of developing a library of libations is to share the contents with passionate people who can appreciate and enhance the experience through conversation, knowledge and open minded discussion.

Throughout this summer I have had the pleasure of sitting in on and arranging some spectacular evenings of blind tasting, bottle sharing and just casual sipping.

 I decided to take a moment to reflect on some of these events and document my notes on some remarkable wines that without the generosity of others... I probably would never have gotten the chance to experience never mind reflect on.

One of the biggest tastings of the summer was organized by a good friend in Massachusetts. His  generosity and mentorship, which blossomed many years ago, really was a pivotal spark that opened my eyes to the art of fine wine. Through this friend I was included in some of my first evenings of focused tasting. Not only the countless bottles of fermented magic we have shared together but his openness to give me space to feel comfortable to express my experiences and perceptions without shame or hesitance.  Knowledge is a tool and finding friends and industry members that are willing to help you hone your voice and advise and educate without shaming is so important especially when dealing with fine wine.

Back to the tasting... 12 Loire Valley Cab Francs poured blind in 4 flights of 3 wines.

Sipped, discussed and experienced for the breathe of flavors, vintages and wine making techniques.

Here are my thoughts on the wines:

CABERNET FRANC BLIND

Thierry Germain Clos de Lechelier 2017 (86pts)

(turmeric & cumin spice, earthy raspberry, violets, hint of brett-ripe acididty, fleshy apple, cranberry bright lifted palate, blood orange bitterness, tomato leaf green accents)  

Thierry Germain Les Memoires 2019 (87pts)

(soft red fruits, apple skin, raspberry leaf tea-silky red fruit, balanced earth, light pencil lead, floral roses and earthy clay)

Grosbois Clos du Noyer 2010 (90pts)

(mineral driven nose, stemmy greeness, faint red fruit, tar and pyrazine- harmonious and complex with interwoven composted fruit and elegant earth)

Joguet Clos de la Dioterie 2020 (90pts)

(strawberry, straw, moss, composted leaves, tarragon- silky mellow red fruits, cherry, blueberry mingle with soft herbaceous earth nuance)

Thierry Germain Franc de Pied 2016 (88pts)

(dark cherries, funky raspberry,mint, cinnamon- soft layered raspberry and forest nuances with a lingering black raspberry ice cream with chocolate sprinkles)

Guiberteau Les Arboises Breze 2014 (85pts)

(fresh laid asphalt, gun powder, black walnut, cherry skins- fruit evolves as the wine opens but still has this wet leaves and old fireworks that lingers)

Baudry Le Clos Guillot 2019 (84pts)

(peppered red fruits, wet leaves, burnt popcorn, brett- classic but simplistic, brett is integrated but opens the palate to some off nuances)

Chateau Yvonne Saumur Champigny 2018 (92pts)

(minty raspberry, juicy pomegranate, layered red summer berry- focused and evolving palate with lifted acidty and a long deep structured finish, great wine)

Joguet Clos de la Dioterie 2016 (88pts)

(necco wafers, eucalyptus, cherry candy violets and a cantaloupe-silky palate with unique yet well integrated flavors)

Hureau Lisagathe 2014 (86pts)

(flinty, pencil lead mingles with dark red fruits- classic flavors and structure)

Clos Rougeard 2015 (90pts)

(evolving fruit, layered red raspberry, cranberry and fleshy apple round through mysterious earth, softy oak and herbal dill, oregano and tarragon- silky, thought provoking wine)

Guiberteau Les Motelles 2015 (88pts)

(dark fruit forward, plumy almost prune-y with violet floralness and composted earth richness- great stucture, dark extraction of skins adds touch of bitterness with the floral)

OTHER LOIRE VALLEY WINES TASTED

Foreau Vouvray Brut Reserve 2015 (90pts)

Stater-West Saumur Blanc Breze 2018 (88pts)

Belargus Anjou Blanc Treilles 2020 (88pts)

Along with a heavy representation of Loire Valley wines, many AMAZING wines were poured and shared through the breadth of this tasting, one of which that I will always be grateful to have been invited too!

Bartletts Blueberry Wine (French Oak) 1987 Vintage

Along with a few get togethers at the homestead, we have seemingly started a small blind tasting group that we are hoping to meet at least monthly to challenge ourselves and our palates.

Our first blind was in August and along with a Chablis I brought along from 

Domaine Tesnut Vieilles Vignes 2019 (not pictured) we also sipped the following:

All delicious offerings and fun to try in a completely blind setting.

I learned a lot this evening, including that I should probably take better notes during these occasions.

Sunshine from Bandol

Its been a hot summer, not complaining just making the observation. With heat comes the need for thirst quenching wines. Albarino, Sauvignon Blancs, Roses and cool weather whites from Germany and Austria have been my preference outside of the ongoing Loire Project.

It was on one of these hot sunny days that I convened with a couple fellow foragers to share and compare a slew of wines from around the globe and I decided to reach into my rose cellar and pull a few of my higher end offerings from Bandol, France to kick off the afternoon.

the Wines

Domaine de Terrebrune Rose Bandol 2024

Chateau Ste Anne Rose Bandol 2023 

My Thoughts...

Domaine de Terrebrune Bandol 2024 (92pts)

Pours a blushing coral with soft rusty oxide reflections.

Aromas of cantaloupe, watermelon, golden raspberry, macerated strawberries, sweet tangelo orange and soft floral & herbal accents emerge on the deep inhale with notes of sage, lavender, elderflower, sweet annie and crushed seashells.

The palate is vibrant and persistent with great structure and harmony of fruit, acidity and ethereal summer ocean breezes.

White peach, cantaloupe, wild strawberry, lemon peel, sage and lavender dance along the palate with a kiss of ripe pomegranate shining through on the finish. 

Elegant movement of ripe fruit, soft herbaceousness and refreshing acidity.

Chateau Ste Anne Bandol 2023 (90pts)

Pours a dusty rose color with reflections of pink antiquity and orange sienna.

Aromas are crushed dried potpourri accentuated by candied citrus, melon rind, wild strawberry, cripps pink apples and faint herbal nuances of lemon balm and lavender.

Palate follows the nose nicely with elegance, vibrancy and finesse from start to finish. 

Delicate layers transition from slightly bitter floral to unripe stonefruit, citrus peel, and melon rind all wrapped into a warm summer breeze wafting through the classic provencal herbs of savory, lemon thyme, sage and lavender.

Tuned up acidity drives the flavors into a lengthy finish that adds a bit of that bitter floral note.

Mouthwatering, focused rose from start to finish.

Cheers to the waning days of summer in Maine!

Domaine Weinbach.

Domaine Weinbach 

Altenbourg Pinot Gris 2019

Vendanges Tardives

12.5% abv

130 grams Residual Sugar/ 1000ml

338 grams At Harvest/ 1000ml

A late harvest pinot gris from the Altenbourg cru of Weinbachs prestigious winery built on the site of a former monastery built by the Capuchins around 1612, and since 1898 it has belonged to the Faller family and been home to Domaine Weinbach through generations of farmers and winemakers.

90 acres of biodynamically cultured vineyards spanning 2 crus and 5 grand crus.

All wines are fermented with indigenous yeast and aged in old foudres.

My Thoughts:

Pours a medium to orange golden color with just a touch of fading on the edges.

Aromas are complex and layered.

Dried mango, lavender flowers, mandarin oils, honeysuckle, wildflower honey, golden raisin, bitter dandelion greens and musty peaches.

The palate is complex and layered as well following the aromas nicely. 

Supple mouthfeel coats the palate like silk as the evolution of tropical fruits, savory herbal nuances and youthful citrus forward acidity all dance around the honey soaked peaches and candied pineapple backbone. 

Nuances of saffron, lavender, lemon balm and hyssop waft through the honeyed stonefruit and sweet  tropical smorgasbord that is only limited by my anglosaxon heritage.

This wine at 6 years old and is still in its youth and I feel has much room to evolve and transform, but from where it stands now, Im happy I was able to share it and experience it with some fellow bottle foragers!

 (94pts)

Three More from Bourgueil.

Three more from Bourgueil, and these wines just sang to me on a rare rainy overcast day in late July as the garden soaked up every drop that fell from the sky, I too, accompanied by my wife, enjoyed each drop of these Loire nectars.

the Line Up

Domaine de la Chevalerie Breteche 2015

Domaine de la Cotelleraie Les Mauguerets 2020

Domaine de la Chanteleuserie Alouettes 2023

As always poured single blind, knowing what the wines are but not which is in which glass.

Smell, taste, reflect... take notes, draw a conclusion and revisit to confirm. Many times I will repeat this with each flight on the next day to see if anything changes. 

My Thoughts & the Results...

Domaine de la Chevalerie Bretéche 2015 (92pts)

Aromas of deep plum, dark sweet cherry flesh, boozy red fruits, graphite, rosemary, twizzler candy and accents of warm clove spice and woodsy cedar shavings.

Palate is harmonious, great balance of earth and fruit with some playful punchy youthfulness wrapped in a silky rich composted earth blanket of finesse and complementary tannin. Rolling blood orange bitterness waltzes w/ quenching acidity and brightness as the classic cranberry, raspberry, dark cocoa nibs and tar flavors hold the tempo and let the forest mystery permeate through the complete atmosphere of this wine. Exquisite bottle of cabernet franc and seems to be maturing but not wrinkling, I predict this wine will surely go another 5 perhaps 10 years

Domaine de la Cotelleraie Les Mauguerets 2020 (90pts)

Aromas of wet composted woodchips, a touch of sulphur, gunpowder, slatwater taffy, violets, cherry pits, blueberry pie, eucalyptus and candied strawberry.

Palate is velvet in mouthfeel with layered red fruits and a predominate strawberry jam, cherry cola, fruity pebbles man this taste like being a kid again but has some mature herbal and mineral notes of  anise, thyme, lavender, flint and crushed gravel too. Overall some great depth of flavor with nice interplay of tannin and acidity to amp up the edges from being too silky and laid back.

Domaine de la Chanteleuserie Alouettes 2023 (84pts)

Aromas of tart cranberry sauce, blueberries, brambles, unripe cherries, youthful start but opens up slightly with nuances of earthy spice of tarragon, black pepper and sage.

Palate is more earthy than the nose lead me to expect and layers of composted leaves, tobacco, wood ash mingle with a bitter grip that tightens around the fruit and handcuffs it with tannin and earthy composted flavors that never open for the faint hints of raspberry chambord fruity brightness to shine. 

A fine line up of Bourgueil wines, worth experiencing each and every one, but if you had to pick just one. The Bretéche is special.  

Expect a smattering of posts coming over the next few weeks as I recoup from a couple of long weeks of slinging organic produce and wine here in Vacationland, while also attending a mind blowing tasting in Massachusetts, organizing a few of my own here in Maine and taking a much deserved week off to enjoy the garden, cellar and my wonderful family! 

Thanks as always for stopping by and keep foraging those shelves for dusty forgotten gems and fresh off the boat ferments!