As the freeze and thaw season seesaws us into a typical New England spring, we gather, we chop, we burn and we boil.
On a recent evening of tasting with some friends, we opened a slew of delightful offerings and vintages from Burgundy and Piedmont along with a few Rieslings not pictured. It was a memorable night filled with nice contrasts which finished up with some leftovers that were a perfect companion for the following day when sap boiling season kicked off!
After getting an early start to the morning chopping some wood and setting up the boiling pans for our annual maple syrup production, I was excited to dive into a few of the offerings I had opened the night prior.
Borgogno Derthona 2022 (94pts)
This wine was phenomenal,such an amazing expression of the almost forgotten Timorasso grape.
It is manually harvested from the vineyards of Monleale e Coli Tortonesi. The grapes are then cold macerated in steel for 3 days followed by a static decantation before spontaneous fermentation in concrete for approximately 25 days before a 1o month refinement back into steel tanks before bottling.
Poured into the glass it has a warm golden hue with some brassy reflections and long clear tears.
Aromas are of complex orchard fruits that mingle with accents of spice, confectionary sugar, beeswax, honeyed almonds and grilled tangerine.
The palate follows the nose but explodes with expressive fruits that were more subtle in the aromas.
Baked apple pie, peach skins, lemon curd and hosui pear swirl about the palate with a suppleness that is rich but not opulent. Underlying notes of dried floral hay, bitter dandelion and lavender honey whisper through the fruit in seductive way that creates depth and tension. A rocky crushed granite draws out the finish with a building acidity to keep the suppleness from becoming to heavy.
Nino Negri Valtellina Superior Vigna Fracia 2019 (93pts)
Chiavennasca aka Nebbiolo sourced from Nino Negri's vineyards that lay on the sunny south facing slopes of northern Italys Valtellina region, known for its alpine climate with chilly glacial winds and shrubby wild brush consisting of wild rosemary and lavender. Grapes are destemmed and crushed and fermented, then rested for 12 months in medium sized barrels and wine barriques before bottling.
Pours a vibrant crimson cherry hue with nice clarity and a touch of dulling on the edges.
Aromas are crushed rose petals, wild strawberry, macerated raspberry, black olives, cherry pits, rich compost, hyssop and rosemary.
The palate follows the nose with great complexity and dangerous drinkability. Tart focused fruit creates a backbone with notes of cranberry, wild strawberry, black cherry and plum skins with ethereal nuances of thyme, rosemary, tar, tarragon and crushed flowers.
The wine is vibrant and bright but also mysteriously alluring at the same time.
A exciting line up of wines for a days hard work as my mind meanders through the pleasurable sips and conversations of last nights tasting!








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