Blinded by Chinon (the Loire Project 2025)

 Into Chinon we go... 

 I was so in the zone for the last few weeks of searching and organizing "the Loire Project" lineup that I kept putting the start of it off, because I was waiting to see if this bottle was gonna arrive, or I just needed to research this producer a lil more, but in the end it just took a little nudge from a fellow wine enthusiast who arrived with a bottle of Chinon in hand and boom, we are underway! 

Our night started with a bottle of rose champagne and then dove into some interesting high acid, slightly oxidized white wines from around the world. After sipping and tasting for a bit, we got some water and a little cheese plate and decided it was time for some reds! My buddy was pretty excited about a recent bottle he had acquired (Thouars, L'Amiral) and after a lil bit of coaxing we decided to side by side a couple of Cabernet Francs from Chinon. Of course once two were open, all of a sudden 4 were open, as we bounced from one to another and weighed the things we enjoyed about each and what we thought others were lacking. It is always fun to try and compare wines with others as we taste with our own palates and our taste references and preconceived notions and preferences always differ. After a generous time of sipping we moved onto some vintage Madeira and even cracked an old bottle of De Struise Pannepot Reserve from 2011 as he mentioned he had never had a "vintage" beer!

Good Times for sure and a great way to embark on this project! Sharing bottles with friends who are enthusiastic about trying things is the greatest pleasure in bottle foraging. As excited as I get about opening special bottles for myself, I get more pleasure out of sharing. 

Having the 4 bottles of Chinon opened I was excited to put them to the test of the previous nights conversation but today I worked them blindly and added in 2 more options to round out the appellation as the week progressed!

Before I get into these wines, lets talk a bit about the Chinon region!

CHINON

-Chinon was granted its AOC in 1937 (adjusted in 2016)

-Currently consists of 2,354 Hectares

-Produces 12 Million Bottles Annually (86% Red/ 9% Rose/ 5% White)

-Deep connection to the author, poet and physician known as Rabelais and the origin of "Breton" a local term used for Cabernet Franc is said to have come from him

-The grape of focus in Chinon is Cabernet Franc

-Most of the vineyards of Chinon are located south of the Loire River just along the northern banks of the Vienne. The Vienne is a major tributary of the Loire and the two rivers converge just west of Chinon.

-Chinons climate is the warmest & driest in all of Touraine which is helped by substantial forests to the north and east. giving added protection to the vineyards from the cold winds of the north.

-Chinon has three major soil types 

1.Alluvial Terraces (sand & gravel located closest to the river banks and produce lighter more aromatic floral wines that are great for youthful drinking.)

2.Turonian Yellow Limestone Slopes (addition of clay and limestone results in denser more black fruit forward, age worthy wines with structured tannin)

3.Siliceous Clay & Sand Over Senonian Limestone (found on the plateaus at higher elevations)

Ok now lets get into these wines.

Tasting, smelling, experiencing...

My thoughts:

Dom Pallus Les Pensees Pallus 2018 (92pts)

Complex aromas of dark cherry & eucalyptus on the front that open into more dark red fruits, decaying autumn forest, earthy mushroom, thyme and mint. Palate follows with graceful interplay between herbaceous woodsy notes and bright red fruits, soft baked apple flesh, rich composted earth, pine needles, blood orange, cherry cola, pomegrante and twizzlers. Focused yet mysterious throughout.

Dom Pallus Messanger Rouge 2020 (90pts)

Initial aromas of dense red fruits with hint of toasted marshmallow that mingles with some green earthy pepper tone accented by cherry skin, black trumpet mushrooms and some rustic woodsy character. Palate is focused on red fruits initially but has great balance of density and playful woodsy character showing glimpses as well. Cherry pulp, apple skins, wet leaves, forest humus. Complexity and vibrancy, dark but not brooding. 

Couly-Dutheil  La Coulee Automnale 2020 (86pts)

Earth forward aromas open into dried cranberry, mossy forest boulders, raspberry, iron, herbal mountain berry. Palate is brighter on the red fruit initially but assimilates into the earthen backbone as is gets more stewed with nuances of black plum, cherry, currant, walnut, apple skins. Earthy notes lean more on floral than herbal here and less green. Bright acid throughout but fights the finish a bit on the end.

Olga Raffault Les Picasses 2017 (86pts)

Aromas of moist dark forest floor with soft strawberry fruit, violets, dried cranberry, pencil shavings and a slight confectionary candied fennel glimpse underneath. Palate is dense with unctuous dark plum tones that roll into a wild blueberry compote. On the palate the earth is more integrated than the nose initially lead me to expect. Focused red fruits, seemless integration of woodsy earth notes and acidity come together in great balance on the finish. Slight lingering green herbaceousness on the finish.

Bernard Baudry Les Grezeaux Chinon 2021 (84pts)

Aromas are green pepper and macerated cherries upfront with a subtle touch of old wood,  barnyard funkiness that is integrated at a level that I find appealing with hints of dried floral hay, fleshy apple and baked plums. Palate has a medium body with less density but still prominent red fruits lead the way weaving through undertones of composted forest floor humus that holds the fruits hands from start to finish. Tart blueberry, rosemary, pine needles, cedar and a deep woodsy berry compote finish.

Chat Petit Thouars L’Amiral 2018 (78pts)

Aromas are dominated by a sandalwood incense note that is cloying and distracting from the floral violets and red fruits you would expect. Some classic red fruit underlays the perfumed awkwardness as it opens into some pencil shavings and tannic plum skin. The fruit continues to be secondary leaving the predominate note that of a hippie store oozing with nag champa and sandalwood. Some classic chinon glimpses but always fleeting and never getting past the awkwardness that started with my first whiff.

Below you can see where along the Vienne each vineyard is located.

Wrapping up with Chinon for now... and with the exception of the Thouars, they were all extremely enjoyable wines. Happily surprised to see Domaine de Pallus taking the top two spots in my blind as they are the two Chinons I always try to keep stocked at the shop I am the wine buyer at. I think my conclusions here are that I am on the right path of exploring. Finding the different nuances between producers and vintage variation will come with time and experience and while I type these I just acquired 4 offerings from the father of Chinon, Charles Joguet... so yes done with Chinon "for now" and stoked to dive into more of the Loire catalog of wines we have lined up for this project!

 Stay tuned....