A Tale of Two Rieslings. 003 (GG Edition)

When it feels right, the time is right. While soaking in some afternoon sun and shoveling the paths at the homestead, I stopped for a moment to listen to the wind drifting through the snow covered forest that we inhabit as the flock of bluejays cackle about the beeches and oaks, sifting around for their forgotten acorns of autumn.

This is the mindset I was in as I hung up the shovel and slowly made my way into the cellar to shed my boots and gloves and find a sip of something to match my mood. As the bottle tops of laid down selections hinted at my possibilities, I spied the recently acquired bottle of Clemens Busch Marienburg Fahrlay 2022 GG and I said... should I, hmmm. Just then my other hands grasped the Kruger Rumpf Im Pitterberg GG 2022 I have been patiently giving a little time too settle and seeing them side by side from the same vintage, the decision was made to treat myself to a Tale of Two Rieslings edition. 

In the last installment of  Tale of Two Rieslings, I briefly spoke of  how to decipher a Riesling label regarding the sweetness levels and the easy cheat of gauging the abv as a typical indicator. 

This installment I will touch on indicators of high quality dry Rieslings. The term GG an abbreviation of grosse gewachs is a designation put together by the 200 member organization called the VDP. What's the VDP, don't they designate Erste Lage. Confused yet... yes Germans are passionate about wine and because of that passion they have struggled to all agree on the best way to designate things in a universal way. QbA, QmP, GG, Erste Lage, Erste Grewachs, Gross Lage... yes it's a bit confusing even for myself who has had it explained by many german importers and even some winemakers themselves. 

But today lets just concentrate on GG or Grosse Gewachs, which is an esteemed designation that characterizes the wine in your hand as always of high quality dry wine from a single vineyard of an Gross Lage. Well know you are probably asking what a Gross Lage is.. and that is a small demarcated area with clear site specific character or "terroir" as their French neighbors would say, or quite simply, Germanys best vineyard sites!  

Ok, I'm learning too, but again theory and knowledge is great but the best way to learn is always to taste!

THE WINE: CLEMENS BUSCH MARIENBURG GG FAHRLAY 2022

MY THOUGHTS:

Pours a light golden color with a glimmering shine of clarity and sparkle.

Aromas whisper gentle nuances of apricot flesh, rainier cherries, lemon zest, dandelion, wet river rock nuances linger with hints of gently placed diesel fumes, juicy fruit gum and spring fog.

Palate follows with some suppleness on the front of the tongue that evolves on the palate as the hyper focused mineral tang seeps into the cheeks and gives the rest of the mouth a secret handshake that opens up the same symphony of layered fruit that the nose lured me in with. Orange blossoms, lemon zest, golden russet apples, mountain spring water and a ever so slight hint of botrytis riding through the tropical veil in a very pleasant way. This wine is pretty electric but also thoughtful. The kind of wine that lights up the room with intention not flamboyance.

Definitely putting a few of these down in the cellar to see how this ages.

(FINAL SCORE: 92pts)

THE WINE: KRUGER RUMPF IM PITTERBERG GG 2022

Pours a pale golden straw color with glasslike clarity and a few tiny gaseous bubbles sparsely settling out on the pour and as the glass sits.

Aromas are punchy with bruised stone fruits mingling with sharp citrus, unripe pineapple spears and ample amounts of bright acid contrasted by green orchid, limestone and diesel whiffs.

Palate is more supple than the nose led on and has a harmonious interplay of fruit and acid. Tangelos, blood orange, sweet luxardo cherry, lemon, spearmint and flint.  Together spinning through the glass like lifelong dance partners as everyone circles around to appreciate the grace as they dip and twirl in harmony with moments of flair but always holding each other firmly in check. The length of the finish rolls with complexity as the fruit evolves further on the tongue and the acidity begs the glass to touch the lips again and again.  

(FINAL SCORE: 92pts)

As I sipped these bottles out, leaving a little for a revisit on day two and even a touch to share on morning three, side by side with a JJ Prum GG, its quite obvious that Riesling matters!

Paired with a snowy afternoon and a good book, maybe a couple slices of charcuterie and a mellow cheese and a crunchy pretzel. 

Till next post, cheers!