Continuing through my deep dive into the Loire, which currently involves sipping through the vineyards and vignerons of Saumur-Champigny. I've had the pleasure of tasting two esteemed producers side by side all from the same vintage this past week.
the LINE UP
Chateau Yvonne La Folie 2022
Chateau Yvonne L'Ile Quatre Sous 2022
Domaine des Roches Neuves Terres Chaudes 2022
Domaine des Roches Neuves La Foulee' 2022
Chateau Yvonne
From the Paris Wine Company:
Located in Parnay, Chateau Yvonne has been surrounded by vineyards since the Middle Ages, when the monk at the Abbaye de Fontevraud brought their influence to the region. The chateau dates to the 16th century, but not much became know of it until 1813, when a local winemaker moved in and began producing wine on site. In 19979, Yvonne and Jean-Francois Lamuniere decided to recreate the abandoned vineyard with the help of Francoise Foucault. In 2007, Mathieu Vallee took over and decided to keep the name Chateau Yvonne, in homage of the incredible work done by the previous owners. Today, the domaine is one of the best producers in Saumur. The estate is composed of 3 hectare of Chenin Blanc and 8 hectares of Cabernet Franc, all of which have been farmed organically since 1997. In 2012 the entire estate was certified biodynamic.
Currently, Matthieu Vallee has taken his place as one of the leading producers in Saumur. The vineyards are spread out amongst 30 small parcels, with many of the best vineyard located in the "La Cote", or the plateau next to the church of Parnay overlooking the Loire River. While much attention has been given to the limestone outcrop of Breze further south, historically these vineyards of "La Cote" have been just as highly regarded.
Domaine des Roches Neuves
From Kermit Lynch:
Roches Neuves, the esteemed vineyards of Thierry Germain are planted in Saumur and Saumur-Champigny appellations, has rightfully become one of the greatest examples of high achievement in biodynamic vine growing in France. His total dedication to site specific wines produced from Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc, his "parcellaires," has produced some of the most exciting wines in the Loire Valley today.
Thierry relocated to the Loire from Bordeaux in the early 1990s, and soon fell under the influence of his spiritual father, Charly Foucault if Clos Rougeard. Thierry would ultimately convert his entire domaine to biodynamics viticulture, which was the equivalent of his wine epiphany. Listening and observing his plants, allowing them to guide him, revolutionized his way of thinking. Thierry harvests on the relatively early side to preserve fresh, vibrant fruit. His goal is to produce Cabernet Farnc with purity, finesse, and drinkability, while avoiding rusticity, vegetal character and abrasive tannins. Aging takes place in round foudres and demimuids in the frigid tuffeau cellars below his winery in Varrains.
Lets get into these delicious Cabernet Francs from Saumur-Champigny!
If you have been following this project, I tend to single blind in groups of four and this grouping was such a treat to sip through over a couple days.
My Thoughts and the Results
Domaine des Roches Neuves Terres Chaudes 2022 (92pts)
Aromas of soft supple red fruits, subtle underlying rosemary, upturned rich garden soil, cedar chips, cherry brightness and a touch of apple skin
Palate is focused with layered complexity, soft velvety mouthfeel, harmonious interplay of berry forward red fruit, crunchy tart apple, wild blueberry, rosemary, mint, pine needles and a bold raspberry chambord base.
Elegant yet powerfully complex and thought provoking with a soft underlying herbaceous accents that draw out the fruit and earth components masterfully into a lengthy complex finish.
Domaine des Roches Neuves Cuvee La Foulee 2022 (90pts)
Aromas of macerated blackberries and rocky soil waft through the glass with chalky red fruits, old forest floor earthiness and some woodchip rusticness.
Palate leans more raspberry compote, soft dark cocoa undertones, raisin, tobacco, violets, peony and moss covered rocks.
Great structure with soft earthy tannins weaving through the focused dark summer berry red fruit that evolves into a layered complexity of earthy forest mystery with hints of soft vanilla and warm baking spices lingering.
Chateau Yvonne L'Ile Quatre Sous 2022 (89pts)
Aromas kick off with a bit of horse blanket funkiness that slowly but surely blow off to a point that it becomes just a whisper alongside the red fruits, spicy red licorice, funky deli meats, tomato leaf, blood orange and mint.
Palate expresses some soft pleasing red fruits of dark plum, berry compote alongside some pronounced forest mystery, peppered spice, and rustic tar qualities that lure the ripe yet reserved red fruit backdrop into the midpalate and it all shines a bit brighter towards the finish.
Vibrant complexity with nice movement on teh palate of earthy tannin structure that is balanced by soft velvety red fruits.
Chateau Yvonne La Folie 2022 (86pts)
Aromas of complex floral and fleshy cherry dominate the nose as it evolves in the glass and allows access to underlying notes of cider funk, thyme, wet leaves, moss and a slight acrid burnt nuttiness.
Palate is a bit more simple than the aromas hinted at but still pleasantly soft and accessible. There is a bit of funky complexity that rides through the life of the wine but a bit more on the acrid funky cider nuances that don't really provoke much nuance or thoughtfulness.
Reserved and shy, touch simplistic overall.
Another great line up from Saumur-Champigny with only a choice bottle or two left for the final assessments as the project winds through the Loire from appellation to appellation. Currently finishing up with the broader region of Anjou, I believe my next rabbit hole may take us up to the north bank of the river, to a region that is the opposite of Saumur-Champigny.
Where we are headed, I have hinted at previously, and its also home to the only Grand Cru appellation in all the Loire. Unlike Saumur-Champigny who grows 100% Cabernet Franc, here you won't find any red grapes as Chenin Blanc rules the rows. It's known for some exceptionally age worthy sweet and dry wines and is home to some of Loire's' founding biodynamic vignerons! Stay tuned... as wine show season wraps up and I finally tend to a major tooth issue that was ebbing and flowing through the last month or so of tasting. I may have to take a weekend off but have no fear, much more of the Loire Project is coming your way along with some smatterings of the most recent spirits that have been hitting my glass as well as an upcoming post about my favorite pink wines currently hitting the market!
