Dropping Francs on Cabernet Francs.

Back at it with the Loire Project, as I sip through the last box of cabernet francs accumulated for the project, along with a few still aging gracefully, there were 4 bottles that remained whose cost was a bit more than the average bottle from the project. Not only did I have these four set aside for a special occasion, I also noticed they were from 4 different appellations within the Loire and decided it would       be fun to bring them along for our most recent blind tasting night and share them with the group.

the Line Up

Chateau Yvonne Le Beaumeray 2019

Clau de Nell Anjou 2020

Amirault Le Clos Des Quaterons Saint Nicolas 2019

P. Corbineau Les Clos Vin de France 2021

We poured them one by one, single blind and quickly assessed them as a group.

The next day I sat down and analyzed them again blindly and here are... 

My Thoughts

Chateau Yvonne Le Beaumeray 2019 (95pts) 

Aromas of fresh raspberry, tart wild strawberry, cedar, rosemary, apple skins, violets, olive, moist earth, graphite and tar. 

Palate has bright acidity seamlessly interwoven with a silky body and layers of evolves flavors that unfold with grace on the wines journey. Complex and thought provoking but also harmonious and easy to understand. The interaction of youthful acidity and lively fruit set the stage on this wine and the backdrop of herbal accents and rich focused earth bring everything together for me. Stunning wine! 

Clau de Nell Anjou 2020 (94pts)

Aromas of woodsy cranberry, plum skin, cherry & bramble, accented by tarragon, juniper and a soft flinty warmness that emerges and evolves with nuances of black tea on the deep inhale.

Palate is velvet with dark extracted fruit permeating the flavors as the fruit builds the complexity follows, gently massaging the tongue with density and structure. Layers of red fruits drape the palate as counterpoints of herbal woodsy mystery lead the palate into a lengthy finish.

Amirault Le Clos Des Quaterons Saint Nicolas 2019 (89pts)

Aromas of red fruits, cherry skins, autumn leaves, dried floral potpourri and composted earth. 

Palate follows with classic cabernet franc appeal. A sound wine that hits all the marks I love about about Loire wine. Just being open next to the two wines above seem to shadow this in the tasting. 

Patrick Corbineau Les Clos Vin de France 2021 (70pts)

Aromas of balsamic, burnt popcorn, horseblanket and twizzler candy.

Palate follows with ketchup, over extracted fruit, oxidized funk, light spritz on the tongue. Why would you do this to cabernet franc? Why would you recommend this wine to me for this project... why did I spend so much money on this? Lesson learned, suspicions confirmed.

What a fun line up to share and experience, with the exception of the Corbineau!

Stay tuned for more sipping, musing and bottle foraging.

Collective Sips.

Collective Sips.

As my recent days and nights have been consumed and spent sipping unexplored producers and appellations, visiting the dusty shelves of bottle shops, all the while scouring distribution lists and importer preorder offers, email lists, online auctions and internet forums.

The real pleasure is never foraging that sought after bottle, although it does come with a fleeting rush of accomplishment, the real pleasure of developing a library of libations is to share the contents with passionate people who can appreciate and enhance the experience through conversation, knowledge and open minded discussion.

Throughout this summer I have had the pleasure of sitting in on and arranging some spectacular evenings of blind tasting, bottle sharing and just casual sipping.

 I decided to take a moment to reflect on some of these events and document my notes on some remarkable wines that without the generosity of others... I probably would never have gotten the chance to experience never mind reflect on.

One of the biggest tastings of the summer was organized by a good friend in Massachusetts. His  generosity and mentorship, which blossomed many years ago, really was a pivotal spark that opened my eyes to the art of fine wine. Through this friend I was included in some of my first evenings of focused tasting. Not only the countless bottles of fermented magic we have shared together but his openness to give me space to feel comfortable to express my experiences and perceptions without shame or hesitance.  Knowledge is a tool and finding friends and industry members that are willing to help you hone your voice and advise and educate without shaming is so important especially when dealing with fine wine.

Back to the tasting... 12 Loire Valley Cab Francs poured blind in 4 flights of 3 wines.

Sipped, discussed and experienced for the breathe of flavors, vintages and wine making techniques.

Here are my thoughts on the wines:

CABERNET FRANC BLIND

Thierry Germain Clos de Lechelier 2017 (86pts)

(turmeric & cumin spice, earthy raspberry, violets, hint of brett-ripe acididty, fleshy apple, cranberry bright lifted palate, blood orange bitterness, tomato leaf green accents)  

Thierry Germain Les Memoires 2019 (87pts)

(soft red fruits, apple skin, raspberry leaf tea-silky red fruit, balanced earth, light pencil lead, floral roses and earthy clay)

Grosbois Clos du Noyer 2010 (90pts)

(mineral driven nose, stemmy greeness, faint red fruit, tar and pyrazine- harmonious and complex with interwoven composted fruit and elegant earth)

Joguet Clos de la Dioterie 2020 (90pts)

(strawberry, straw, moss, composted leaves, tarragon- silky mellow red fruits, cherry, blueberry mingle with soft herbaceous earth nuance)

Thierry Germain Franc de Pied 2016 (88pts)

(dark cherries, funky raspberry,mint, cinnamon- soft layered raspberry and forest nuances with a lingering black raspberry ice cream with chocolate sprinkles)

Guiberteau Les Arboises Breze 2014 (85pts)

(fresh laid asphalt, gun powder, black walnut, cherry skins- fruit evolves as the wine opens but still has this wet leaves and old fireworks that lingers)

Baudry Le Clos Guillot 2019 (84pts)

(peppered red fruits, wet leaves, burnt popcorn, brett- classic but simplistic, brett is integrated but opens the palate to some off nuances)

Chateau Yvonne Saumur Champigny 2018 (92pts)

(minty raspberry, juicy pomegranate, layered red summer berry- focused and evolving palate with lifted acidty and a long deep structured finish, great wine)

Joguet Clos de la Dioterie 2016 (88pts)

(necco wafers, eucalyptus, cherry candy violets and a cantaloupe-silky palate with unique yet well integrated flavors)

Hureau Lisagathe 2014 (86pts)

(flinty, pencil lead mingles with dark red fruits- classic flavors and structure)

Clos Rougeard 2015 (90pts)

(evolving fruit, layered red raspberry, cranberry and fleshy apple round through mysterious earth, softy oak and herbal dill, oregano and tarragon- silky, thought provoking wine)

Guiberteau Les Motelles 2015 (88pts)

(dark fruit forward, plumy almost prune-y with violet floralness and composted earth richness- great stucture, dark extraction of skins adds touch of bitterness with the floral)

OTHER LOIRE VALLEY WINES TASTED

Foreau Vouvray Brut Reserve 2015 (90pts)

Stater-West Saumur Blanc Breze 2018 (88pts)

Belargus Anjou Blanc Treilles 2020 (88pts)

Along with a heavy representation of Loire Valley wines, many AMAZING wines were poured and shared through the breadth of this tasting, one of which that I will always be grateful to have been invited too!

Bartletts Blueberry Wine (French Oak) 1987 Vintage

Along with a few get togethers at the homestead, we have seemingly started a small blind tasting group that we are hoping to meet at least monthly to challenge ourselves and our palates.

Our first blind was in August and along with a Chablis I brought along from 

Domaine Tesnut Vieilles Vignes 2019 (not pictured) we also sipped the following:

All delicious offerings and fun to try in a completely blind setting.

I learned a lot this evening, including that I should probably take better notes during these occasions.

Sunshine from Bandol

Its been a hot summer, not complaining just making the observation. With heat comes the need for thirst quenching wines. Albarino, Sauvignon Blancs, Roses and cool weather whites from Germany and Austria have been my preference outside of the ongoing Loire Project.

It was on one of these hot sunny days that I convened with a couple fellow foragers to share and compare a slew of wines from around the globe and I decided to reach into my rose cellar and pull a few of my higher end offerings from Bandol, France to kick off the afternoon.

the Wines

Domaine de Terrebrune Rose Bandol 2024

Chateau Ste Anne Rose Bandol 2023 

My Thoughts...

Domaine de Terrebrune Bandol 2024 (92pts)

Pours a blushing coral with soft rusty oxide reflections.

Aromas of cantaloupe, watermelon, golden raspberry, macerated strawberries, sweet tangelo orange and soft floral & herbal accents emerge on the deep inhale with notes of sage, lavender, elderflower, sweet annie and crushed seashells.

The palate is vibrant and persistent with great structure and harmony of fruit, acidity and ethereal summer ocean breezes.

White peach, cantaloupe, wild strawberry, lemon peel, sage and lavender dance along the palate with a kiss of ripe pomegranate shining through on the finish. 

Elegant movement of ripe fruit, soft herbaceousness and refreshing acidity.

Chateau Ste Anne Bandol 2023 (90pts)

Pours a dusty rose color with reflections of pink antiquity and orange sienna.

Aromas are crushed dried potpourri accentuated by candied citrus, melon rind, wild strawberry, cripps pink apples and faint herbal nuances of lemon balm and lavender.

Palate follows the nose nicely with elegance, vibrancy and finesse from start to finish. 

Delicate layers transition from slightly bitter floral to unripe stonefruit, citrus peel, and melon rind all wrapped into a warm summer breeze wafting through the classic provencal herbs of savory, lemon thyme, sage and lavender.

Tuned up acidity drives the flavors into a lengthy finish that adds a bit of that bitter floral note.

Mouthwatering, focused rose from start to finish.

Cheers to the waning days of summer in Maine!

Domaine Weinbach.

Domaine Weinbach 

Altenbourg Pinot Gris 2019

Vendanges Tardives

12.5% abv

130 grams Residual Sugar/ 1000ml

338 grams At Harvest/ 1000ml

A late harvest pinot gris from the Altenbourg cru of Weinbachs prestigious winery built on the site of a former monastery built by the Capuchins around 1612, and since 1898 it has belonged to the Faller family and been home to Domaine Weinbach through generations of farmers and winemakers.

90 acres of biodynamically cultured vineyards spanning 2 crus and 5 grand crus.

All wines are fermented with indigenous yeast and aged in old foudres.

My Thoughts:

Pours a medium to orange golden color with just a touch of fading on the edges.

Aromas are complex and layered.

Dried mango, lavender flowers, mandarin oils, honeysuckle, wildflower honey, golden raisin, bitter dandelion greens and musty peaches.

The palate is complex and layered as well following the aromas nicely. 

Supple mouthfeel coats the palate like silk as the evolution of tropical fruits, savory herbal nuances and youthful citrus forward acidity all dance around the honey soaked peaches and candied pineapple backbone. 

Nuances of saffron, lavender, lemon balm and hyssop waft through the honeyed stonefruit and sweet  tropical smorgasbord that is only limited by my anglosaxon heritage.

This wine at 6 years old and is still in its youth and I feel has much room to evolve and transform, but from where it stands now, Im happy I was able to share it and experience it with some fellow bottle foragers!

 (94pts)

Three More from Bourgueil.

Three more from Bourgueil, and these wines just sang to me on a rare rainy overcast day in late July as the garden soaked up every drop that fell from the sky, I too, accompanied by my wife, enjoyed each drop of these Loire nectars.

the Line Up

Domaine de la Chevalerie Breteche 2015

Domaine de la Cotelleraie Les Mauguerets 2020

Domaine de la Chanteleuserie Alouettes 2023

As always poured single blind, knowing what the wines are but not which is in which glass.

Smell, taste, reflect... take notes, draw a conclusion and revisit to confirm. Many times I will repeat this with each flight on the next day to see if anything changes. 

My Thoughts & the Results...

Domaine de la Chevalerie Bretéche 2015 (92pts)

Aromas of deep plum, dark sweet cherry flesh, boozy red fruits, graphite, rosemary, twizzler candy and accents of warm clove spice and woodsy cedar shavings.

Palate is harmonious, great balance of earth and fruit with some playful punchy youthfulness wrapped in a silky rich composted earth blanket of finesse and complementary tannin. Rolling blood orange bitterness waltzes w/ quenching acidity and brightness as the classic cranberry, raspberry, dark cocoa nibs and tar flavors hold the tempo and let the forest mystery permeate through the complete atmosphere of this wine. Exquisite bottle of cabernet franc and seems to be maturing but not wrinkling, I predict this wine will surely go another 5 perhaps 10 years

Domaine de la Cotelleraie Les Mauguerets 2020 (90pts)

Aromas of wet composted woodchips, a touch of sulphur, gunpowder, slatwater taffy, violets, cherry pits, blueberry pie, eucalyptus and candied strawberry.

Palate is velvet in mouthfeel with layered red fruits and a predominate strawberry jam, cherry cola, fruity pebbles man this taste like being a kid again but has some mature herbal and mineral notes of  anise, thyme, lavender, flint and crushed gravel too. Overall some great depth of flavor with nice interplay of tannin and acidity to amp up the edges from being too silky and laid back.

Domaine de la Chanteleuserie Alouettes 2023 (84pts)

Aromas of tart cranberry sauce, blueberries, brambles, unripe cherries, youthful start but opens up slightly with nuances of earthy spice of tarragon, black pepper and sage.

Palate is more earthy than the nose lead me to expect and layers of composted leaves, tobacco, wood ash mingle with a bitter grip that tightens around the fruit and handcuffs it with tannin and earthy composted flavors that never open for the faint hints of raspberry chambord fruity brightness to shine. 

A fine line up of Bourgueil wines, worth experiencing each and every one, but if you had to pick just one. The Bretéche is special.  

Expect a smattering of posts coming over the next few weeks as I recoup from a couple of long weeks of slinging organic produce and wine here in Vacationland, while also attending a mind blowing tasting in Massachusetts, organizing a few of my own here in Maine and taking a much deserved week off to enjoy the garden, cellar and my wonderful family! 

Thanks as always for stopping by and keep foraging those shelves for dusty forgotten gems and fresh off the boat ferments!

Three from Bourgueil.

 

Staying in the cabernet franc frame of mind with the current deep dive into the Loire Project. After a few heat waves of sipping rose and more daquiris it was time to sit by an afternoon firepit and taste through a small grouping of Bourgueil producers. 

the Line Up

Domaine de la Chanteleuserie Cuvee Beauvais 2023

Y. Amirault Cote 50 2022

Domaine de la Cotelleraie Pigeur Fou 2020

My Thoughts & the Results...

                       Dom de la Cotelleraie Pigeur Fou 2020 (92pts)                             

Aromas of tomato leaf, blackberry, apple skins, crushed blueberries, plums and a herbaceous violet, lavender, floral nuance. 

Palate is fruit forward on the front end with some glimpses of mineral rich composted earth, wild strawberry, raspberry, blueberry and violets all wrapped up in a bright quenching acidity that builds as the flavors evolve but keeps balanced by a fleshy apple backbone.

Great overall depth and movement. Comparable to that person you didn't quite think was your kind of person at first, but after a lil small talk and finding some common ground, they end up leaving you with an intimate connection that deepens your understanding of life and opens you to a unique perspective that you find yourself craving when you are apart.

 Domaine de la Chanteleuserie Cuvee Beauvais 2023 (88pts)

Aromas kick off spicy like smoked paprika but alluring soft raspberry jam notes work its way from the crowd and exclaims this has much fruit to contend with along with nuances of rosemary, cedar, well composted earth, eucalyptus & green unroasted coffee beans.

On the palate this wine shows balance. Yes balance and harmony with blood orange acidity swirling through layers of strawberry compote, ripe brooding raspberry, as soft herbal earthiness emerges from the fruit with hints of poblano and lingering tarragon accents.

This wine shows clear intentions and creates a friendly inviting dialogue, it reveals itself as a great companion but never quite dives into deep conversation. That acquaintance that asks you how you're doing but kind of drifts off when you begin to answer.  

 

 Yannick Amirault Cote 50 2022 (87pts)

             Aromas of cranberry sauce, woodchips, soft earthy dried peppers creating some underlying pyrazines, fleshy bing cherry, red jelly candy and raspberry jam.

The palate is soft and evolves starting with some silky red fruits, rolling into an herbal midpalate that balances out the flavors with primary notes of raspberry coulis and earthy cranberry, all rolling into a long fruity finish that honestly reminds me of black raspberry ice cream with sprinkles.

A soft and unassuming wine that is persistent but cordial. Waltzing through the palate like its danced this dance over and over, never missing a step but also failing to challenge the status quo.

A great line up, paired nicely with a day of burning some blow downs and tending to the garden while grilling some sausage and veggies, capping the evening off with some classic campfire s'mores. 

Im finding lots of variation from producer to producer but not as much glaring differences from appellation to appellation,  at least on the cabernet franc side of the project. I will start the conversation of observations by saying I have found Bourgueil to be a bit more extracted in fruit and density than the offerings from Chinon and Saumur.  This may also be attributed to riper vintages, which is another factor that I have been trying to focus on and pay attention to, but also seems a bit inherent in all of the Bourgueil selections thus far.

With my cabernet franc bottles dwindling down in the cellar and a special cab franc blind tasting that I will be attending on the horizon, I would expect to see a few more cabernet franc posts coming soon as I try to gain as much insight and experience to bring to the tasting.

Stop and Blind the Rosés.

As the spring weather transitions into summer, the new vintages of 2024 rosés are blossoming into my glass and out of the garden. Seemed like an apt time to open a trio of this years German offerings from some of my favorite producers! 

the Line Up

Seehof Pinot Noir Rosé 

Von Winning Pinot Noir Rosé 

Kruger Rumpf Pinot Noir Rosé 

(all 2024 vintage)

My Thoughts and the Results...

VON WINNING PINOT NOIR ROSE (90pts)

Aromas of spicy berry, deep floral essence, watermelon, summer berry, citrus blossom and a touch peppery arugula or wrinkled cress.

Palate has a juicy summer berry backbone with glimpses of herbal and citrus glimpses as the flavors evolve in the glass.Watermelon rind, citrus oils, unripe peach, sage, honeysuckle, tart golden raspeberry.

Lengthy evolving palate with all the hallmarks of a delicious pinot based rosé. Focused acidity, layered summer fruits and a delicate persistent finish.

KRUGER RUMPF PINOT NOIR ROSE (88pts)

Touch of gassy bubble on the pour. Aromas are white tea, orange blossoms, wildflower honey, raspberry leaf and earthy cherry pits and some wet slate.

Palate is soft and supple on the front end with notes of cantaloupe, wild strawberry, orange pith and sage. Touch of prickle on the tongue that livens the front end and refreshing acidity that draws out the finish nicely with lingering stonefruit, sage and lingering minerality that weaves through the bitter melon rind finish.

SEEHOF PINOT NOIR ROSE (87pts)

Inviting aromas of citrus oils, wild strawberry, green rhubarb and white flowers.

Palate follows the nose nicely with focused summer berry fruit that evokes nuances of smarties candy, cherry skins, earthy blueberry, elderflowers, flowering thyme, nectarine that all harmonize in a cohesive easy drinking with nice structure, refreshing acidity and lingering herbal accents.

A pleasure to sip each and everyone over a couple days and honestly, I would highly recommend trying them all. Also, yes summer and rosé go hand and hand, but please do not put them away like your white pants when labor day rolls around. Rosé is great year round and it is such a versatile wine that bridges the red/white divide and accompanies food and conversation with the best of them! 

Happy Summer 2025... stay tuned for more as we explore, forage, sip and share!

Into the Land of Bourgueil.

Ok, getting back on track for the Loire Project here. I know I had been teasing Savienerre for my next region as I jumped through the different appellations of Anjou. Well forget that, after a few cool rainy nights and a late night accompanied by a friend that was curious about cab franc, I derailed that plan and cracked into some offerings from Bourgueil.

( a general view of Bourgueil from wikipedia)

Much like Chinon, Bourgueil has a similar breath of soil types ranging from sand, gravel and the classic tuffeau along with some protection from the cold northern winds by surrounding forests. A region located just west of Tours, along the right bank of the Loire. There are many similarities in comparison to Chinon and Saumur, yet while sipping these wines there is an undeniable uniqueness of Bourgueil. That being said, I am still making my way through investigating the characteristics and terroir of this appellation and will share some of my findings, conclusions and insights in part two.

the LINE UP

Catherine Breton Trinch 2023

Domaine de Chevalerie Chevalerie 2019

Domaine du Changeon Les Passagers 2020

Domaine du Bel Air Les Vingt Lieus Dits 2020

You know the drill by now, all four poured blind and assessed, lets get into  the results!

My Thoughts and the Results...

Dom Chevalerie Chevalerie 2019 (90pts)

Aromas of dense cherry, earthy composted forest floor, iron, violets, black olive, plum skin and a touch of tarragon.

Palate is bright upfront with unctuous cherry flesh leading the way into raspberry, plum and some of that underlying earthy compost from the nose. Great balance of acidity and dark fleshy fruits opening up a complex palate with nuances of blood orange, tar, pomegranate, wet moss and wood chips.

Tuned to perfection!

Catherine Breton Trinch 2023 (86pts)

Aromas of raspberry coulis, cherry skins, cherry pie, decaying mulch, licorice and juicy berry.

Palate is fruit forward like the nose with layers of berry compote, cherry skins, apple skins, wild strawberry, peony, sorrel and soft earthy nuances of wet leaves and pine needles tease out the finish as the fruit fades. 

Harmonious integration of earth and fruit with supple weight to ride out the acidity nicely.

 

Domaine du Changeon Les Passagers 2020 (85pts)

Aromas of candied fruit, wood ear mushroom, cedar, flinty graphite, raspberry cordial and nuanced baking spice.

Palate is red fruit forward but leaning into a earthy cranberry, elderberry and dried blueberry. Musty forest floor permeates through the fruit and draws out some green floral herbaceous, along with a touch of bitter tannic bite that grips late and settles out with the earthy fruit.

Nice evolving palate with nice balance but just not enough acidity to shine as bright as I feel this wine could have shined.

Domaine du Bel Air Les Vingt Lieus Dits 2020 (80pts)

Aromas are brettanomyces forward with some barnyard composted red fruits, pine, rosemary, macerated raspberry along with some steamy upturned compost, sandalwood and dried holiday floral Christmas tree potpourri.

Palate is herbaceous, heavy on the pine, spruce and rosemary flavors harnessed slightly by some dark concentrated blackberry, cherry skin and wet composting leaves.

Some redeeming qualities but a bit too Christmassy... honestly it reminds me of opening the attic aged box of Christmas decorations that contains an old yankee candle holiday spice selection. 

Overall a delicious line up and I would be curious to see how the Domaine du Bel Air would hold up on its own, with a nice meal... the good and bad with these single blinds is it really dials in your palate to focus on the differences in each glass, the contrasting elements will always be what stands out and sometimes you have associations or just feel overpowered by its uniqueness. Occasionally that uniqueness can win you over and occasionally it can push you away.

I have a handful of higher tier Bourgueils to dive into soon as the heat of summer and the hustle and bustle associated with it gets well underway. Hot days in the garden have had more glasses of rose' being poured as well as the emergence of daiquiri season, a personal favorite of mine!

Surely I will be posting more as my journey to forage the perfect bottle and glass continues...

Cider Blossoms of the Spring. (Absolem Cider)

As the days grow warmer and the buds break on the humble beginnings of our homestead orchard. My mouth is finally healing from last weeks dental adventures and allowing me to ease back into sipping a few cellar offerings.  As I looked over our Macoun and Roxbury Russet trees I decided it would be a good time to break into a local cider from the ever growing stable Maine has at its disposal. 

Absolem Cider Groundwork 

Single Orchard Cider 2023

 (Pietree Orchard) 

A nice collaboration of two Maine operations, one being Absolem Cider who has slowly emerged as an innovative cider house located in Winthrop, ME. Here they have restored a 150 year old barn where they produced a wide array of ciders and co-ferments with nods to the traditional ciders of the old world and creativity to bring cider heritage into the minds of a younger generations of cider enthusiasts! Honestly I have never been let down by any of their offerings, from flagships to one offs, they are worth seeking out and I look forward to sharing more of my thoughts as I myself work through their library of libations. 

The second part of this collaboration is where these apples were sourced. Pietree Orchards in Sweden, ME. A 100+ acre orchard in the hills of western Maine with views of the White Mountains. Preserved by the King family in 2007 and saving it from becoming a housing development. This orchard had become our families traditional spot to meet up with old friends to pick apples, peaches and berries. Capping each picking event off with a picnic of housemade cider donuts, woodfired pizza and a glass of fresh pressed cider... we are all saddened by its sudden abrupt closing in 2023 and hope the future of this orchard remains a productive agricultural landmark for the local community.

Ok enough backstory, lets get down to what is in our glass and my thoughts on

ABSOLEM GROUNDWORK 2023 (93pts)

Pours a pale golden yellow color with foggy morning haze throughout the glass as tiny bubbles trickle from the glasses epicure.

Aromas are bright, joyful and complex. Layers of unripe pineapple, lavender, crisp fleshy apple, lilac, citrus blossoms and wildflower honey swirl through my nose as un underlying spice mingles with hints of cinamint and flowering wrinkled cress.

The palate follows with a cohesive backdrop of granny smith-esque tartness that unfolds throughout the palate creating a platform for an evolving symphony of flavors. Dried mango, white peach and tangerine oil burst across the palate with a refreshing acidity that flows into a supple fleshy cider mid palate with nice tannic structure and a elegant floral spice that lingers persistently with the tart finish.

Lengthy, contemplative and just plain delicious!

Stay tuned for more ciders and fermented ramblings to come...

Saumur-Champigny... Yeah you know Me!

Continuing through my deep dive into the Loire, which currently involves sipping through the vineyards and vignerons of Saumur-Champigny. I've had the pleasure of tasting two esteemed producers side by side all from the same vintage this past week.

the LINE UP

Chateau Yvonne La Folie 2022

Chateau Yvonne L'Ile Quatre Sous 2022

Domaine des Roches Neuves Terres Chaudes 2022

Domaine des Roches Neuves La Foulee' 2022

Chateau Yvonne

From the Paris Wine Company: 

Located in Parnay, Chateau Yvonne has been surrounded by vineyards since the Middle Ages, when the monk at the Abbaye de Fontevraud brought their influence to the region. The chateau dates to the 16th century, but not much became know of it until 1813, when a local winemaker moved in and began producing wine on site. In 19979, Yvonne and Jean-Francois Lamuniere decided to recreate the abandoned vineyard with the help of Francoise Foucault. In 2007, Mathieu Vallee took over and decided to keep the name Chateau Yvonne, in homage of the incredible work done by the previous owners. Today, the domaine is one of the best producers in Saumur. The estate is composed of 3 hectare of Chenin Blanc and 8 hectares of Cabernet Franc, all of which have been farmed organically since 1997. In 2012 the entire estate was certified biodynamic.

Currently, Matthieu Vallee has taken his place as one of the leading producers in Saumur. The vineyards are spread out amongst 30 small parcels, with many of the best vineyard located in the "La Cote", or the plateau next to the church of Parnay overlooking the Loire River. While much attention has been given to the limestone outcrop of Breze further south, historically these vineyards of "La Cote" have been just as highly regarded. 

Domaine des Roches Neuves

From Kermit Lynch:

Roches Neuves, the esteemed vineyards of Thierry Germain are planted in Saumur and Saumur-Champigny appellations, has rightfully become one of the greatest examples of high achievement in biodynamic vine growing in France. His total dedication to site specific wines produced from Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc, his "parcellaires," has produced some of the most exciting wines in the Loire Valley today.

Thierry relocated to the Loire from Bordeaux in the early 1990s, and soon fell under the influence of his spiritual father, Charly Foucault if Clos Rougeard. Thierry would ultimately convert his entire domaine to biodynamics viticulture, which was the equivalent of his wine epiphany. Listening and observing his plants, allowing them to guide him, revolutionized his way of thinking. Thierry harvests on the relatively early side to preserve fresh, vibrant fruit. His goal is to produce Cabernet Farnc with purity, finesse, and drinkability, while avoiding rusticity, vegetal character and abrasive tannins. Aging takes place in round foudres and demimuids in the frigid tuffeau cellars below his winery in Varrains. 

Lets get into these delicious Cabernet Francs from Saumur-Champigny!

If you have been following this project, I tend to single blind in groups of four and this grouping was such a treat to sip through over a couple days.

My Thoughts and the Results

Domaine des Roches Neuves Terres Chaudes 2022 (92pts)

Aromas of soft supple red fruits, subtle underlying rosemary, upturned rich garden soil, cedar chips, cherry brightness and a touch of apple skin

Palate is focused with layered complexity, soft velvety mouthfeel, harmonious interplay of berry forward red fruit, crunchy tart apple, wild blueberry, rosemary, mint, pine needles and a bold raspberry chambord base.

Elegant yet powerfully complex and thought provoking with a soft underlying herbaceous accents that draw out the fruit and earth components masterfully into a lengthy complex finish.

Domaine des Roches Neuves Cuvee La Foulee 2022 (90pts)

Aromas of macerated blackberries and rocky soil waft through the glass with chalky red fruits, old forest floor earthiness and some woodchip rusticness.

Palate leans more raspberry compote, soft dark cocoa undertones, raisin, tobacco, violets, peony and moss covered rocks.

Great structure with soft earthy tannins weaving through the focused dark summer berry red fruit that evolves into a layered complexity of earthy forest mystery with hints of soft vanilla and warm baking spices lingering.

Chateau Yvonne L'Ile Quatre Sous 2022 (89pts)

Aromas kick off with a bit of horse blanket funkiness that slowly but surely blow off to a point that it becomes just a whisper alongside the red fruits, spicy red licorice, funky deli meats, tomato leaf, blood orange and mint.

Palate expresses some soft pleasing red fruits of dark plum, berry compote alongside some pronounced forest mystery, peppered spice, and rustic tar qualities that lure the ripe yet reserved red fruit backdrop into the midpalate and it all shines a bit brighter towards the finish.

Vibrant complexity with nice movement on teh palate of earthy tannin structure that is balanced by soft velvety red fruits. 

Chateau Yvonne La Folie 2022 (86pts)

Aromas of complex floral and fleshy cherry dominate the nose as it evolves in the glass and allows access to underlying notes of cider funk, thyme, wet leaves, moss and a slight acrid burnt nuttiness.

Palate is a bit more simple than the aromas hinted at but still pleasantly soft and accessible.  There is a bit of funky complexity that rides through the life of the wine but a bit more on the acrid funky cider nuances that don't really provoke much nuance or thoughtfulness.

Reserved and shy, touch simplistic overall. 

Another great line up from Saumur-Champigny with only a choice bottle or two left for the final assessments as the project winds through the Loire from appellation to appellation. Currently finishing up with the broader region of Anjou, I believe my next rabbit hole may take us up to the north bank of the river, to a region that is the opposite of Saumur-Champigny. 

Where we are headed, I have hinted at previously, and its also home to the only Grand Cru appellation in all the Loire. Unlike Saumur-Champigny who grows 100% Cabernet Franc, here you won't find any red grapes as Chenin Blanc rules the rows. It's known for some exceptionally age worthy sweet and dry wines and is home to some of Loire's' founding biodynamic vignerons! Stay tuned... as wine show season wraps up and I finally tend to a major tooth issue that was ebbing and flowing through the last month or so of tasting. I may have to take a weekend off but have no fear, much more of the Loire Project is coming your way along with some smatterings of the most recent spirits that have been hitting my glass as well as an upcoming post about my favorite pink wines currently hitting the market!

  

Saumur-Champigny is the Place to Be.

 Easing back into the Cabernet Franc side of the Loire Project, after we recently navigated through the Anjou & Saumur, leaving a few notable stones and bottles unturned for the moment.

It is time to explore the appellation of Saumur-Champigny!

Saumur-Champigny Vineyard 

(image courtesy of istock)

As you can see from this map above we are headed just northeast of Anjou and Saumur, though technically still located in both as a sub appellation, we slowly meander further up the Loire River where Saumur-Champigny is located. Tucked right into a slight bend of the river, where the land plateaus and flattens, opening to one of the warmest spots in all the Loire. Saumur-Champigny which means "fields of fire" is well known for its red wines. These red wines are most commonly 100% Cabernet Franc but the region does allow up to 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Pineau d'Aunis. Saumur-Champigny got its AOP designation in 1957 and today is home to over 100 different growers spread over 1,500 hectares. There is a great diversity of soil types through these vineyards, similar to neighboring Saumur, but here lies a bedrock predominately made of limestone or tuffeau as its locally known. The tuffeau is the foundation throughout the appellation. Its what the caves that house the cellars and sometimes even the homes of its residents reign supreme. The overall landscape of Champigny is more flat with much thinner layers of the alluvial gravel top soils compared to those of Chinon & Bourgueil.  This thinner top soil is highly sought after for planting Chenin, but the white grape are not favored in Saumur-Champigny. Reds that can possess a supple fruity quality with bright acidity and substance are the majority of wines produced here!

the Lineup

Clotilde Legrand Les Terrages 2019

Chateau du Hureau Lisagathe 2014

Chateau du Hureau Tuffe 2021 (375ml)

Fabien Duveau Les Menais 2021

Poured blind and assessed on aromas, palate and overall drinkability and complexity!

My Thoughts and the Results...

Chateau du Hureau Tuffe 2021 (375ml) (90pts)

Aromas have a dark umami driven red fruit base, tart cherry, white pepper, herbaceous tomato leaf, potpourri of violets and roses.

Palate is a mixture of ripe field berries, composted forest, thyme, sage, lovage, tart apple skins, crunchy red fruit and berry compote lingers with structured earthiness and silky tannins.

Delicious in every aspect, yet highly contemplative and complex interplay of dense fruit and mysterious earthy herbaceousness showing glimpses of dark composted earth and floral complexity.  

Chateau du Hureau Lisagathe 2014 (88pts)

Aromas of musty red fruit, dried cherry, apple skins, licorice, thyme, composted forest, cedar and hints of frankincense and graphite.

Palate is layered with soft plump blueberry, blackberry, mossy bark, black plum skins, orange pith and a floral earthy backbone that integrates nicely and lengthens the finish nicely.

Silky body with dense earth intertwined with harmonious layers of fruity acidity and herbal earthen spice.

Clotilde Legrand Les Terrages 2019 (85pts)

Aromas of candied red fruit, soft vanilla, dough sugar cookie, red clay and reserved hints of composted forest floor, black raspberry, raspberry leaf tea, dried cherry, cedar and rosehips.  

Palate is earthy but bright with  macerated black raspberry acidity evolving with mysterious layers of earthy licorice, unripe alpine strawberry, rosemary, wet moss and 

Easy on the palate, varietal correct, just not as complex as the other offerings here.

Fabien Duveau Les Menais 2021 (86pts)

Aromas are mossy tree bark, dried cherry, cedar chips, apple skins and a light mint kissed rosemary warmth.

Palate is fresher and brighter than the nose offered with ripe red fruits, crunchy gala apple, berry compote, grape soda, blood orange and plum skin linger with a touch of herbal hints but way more restrained in the earthy undertones.

Soft inviting wine with a velvety structure, guided by ripe focused red fruits and hints of earthy mystery but more subdued than most of the others.

A great grouping of wines from Saumur-Champigny with a two on two lineup from Chateau Yvonne and Domaine des Roches Neuves on deck for later this week!