Domaine Weinbach.

Domaine Weinbach 

Altenbourg Pinot Gris 2019

Vendanges Tardives

12.5% abv

130 grams Residual Sugar/ 1000ml

338 grams At Harvest/ 1000ml

A late harvest pinot gris from the Altenbourg cru of Weinbachs prestigious winery built on the site of a former monastery built by the Capuchins around 1612, and since 1898 it has belonged to the Faller family and been home to Domaine Weinbach through generations of farmers and winemakers.

90 acres of biodynamically cultured vineyards spanning 2 crus and 5 grand crus.

All wines are fermented with indigenous yeast and aged in old foudres.

My Thoughts:

Pours a medium to orange golden color with just a touch of fading on the edges.

Aromas are complex and layered.

Dried mango, lavender flowers, mandarin oils, honeysuckle, wildflower honey, golden raisin, bitter dandelion greens and musty peaches.

The palate is complex and layered as well following the aromas nicely. 

Supple mouthfeel coats the palate like silk as the evolution of tropical fruits, savory herbal nuances and youthful citrus forward acidity all dance around the honey soaked peaches and candied pineapple backbone. 

Nuances of saffron, lavender, lemon balm and hyssop waft through the honeyed stonefruit and sweet  tropical smorgasbord that is only limited by my anglosaxon heritage.

This wine at 6 years old and is still in its youth and I feel has much room to evolve and transform, but from where it stands now, Im happy I was able to share it and experience it with some fellow wine geeks!

 (94pts)

Three More from Bourgueil.

Three more from Bourgueil, and these wines just sang to me on a rare rainy overcast day in late July as the garden soaked up every drop that fell from the sky, I too, accompanied by my wife, enjoyed each drop of these Loire nectars.

the Line Up

Domaine de la Chevalerie Breteche 2015

Domaine de la Cotelleraie Les Mauguerets 2020

Domaine de la Chanteleuserie Alouettes 2023

As always poured single blind, knowing what the wines are but not which is in which glass.

Smell, taste, reflect... take notes, draw a conclusion and revisit to confirm. Many times I will repeat this with each flight on the next day to see if anything changes. 

My Thoughts & the Results...

Domaine de la Chevalerie Bretéche 2015 (92pts)

Aromas of deep plum, dark sweet cherry flesh, boozy red fruits, graphite, rosemary, twizzler candy and accents of warm clove spice and woodsy cedar shavings.

Palate is harmonious, great balance of earth and fruit with some playful punchy youthfulness wrapped in a silky rich composted earth blanket of finesse and complementary tannin. Rolling blood orange bitterness waltzes w/ quenching acidity and brightness as the classic cranberry, raspberry, dark cocoa nibs and tar flavors hold the tempo and let the forest mystery permeate through the complete atmosphere of this wine. Exquisite bottle of cabernet franc and seems to be maturing but not wrinkling, I predict this wine will surely go another 5 perhaps 10 years

Domaine de la Cotelleraie Les Mauguerets 2020 (90pts)

Aromas of wet composted woodchips, a touch of sulphur, gunpowder, slatwater taffy, violets, cherry pits, blueberry pie, eucalyptus and candied strawberry.

Palate is velvet in mouthfeel with layered red fruits and a predominate strawberry jam, cherry cola, fruity pebbles man this taste like being a kid again but has some mature herbal and mineral notes of  anise, thyme, lavender, flint and crushed gravel too. Overall some great depth of flavor with nice interplay of tannin and acidity to amp up the edges from being too silky and laid back.

Domaine de la Chanteleuserie Alouettes 2023 (84pts)

Aromas of tart cranberry sauce, blueberries, brambles, unripe cherries, youthful start but opens up slightly with nuances of earthy spice of tarragon, black pepper and sage.

Palate is more earthy than the nose lead me to expect and layers of composted leaves, tobacco, wood ash mingle with a bitter grip that tightens around the fruit and handcuffs it with tannin and earthy composted flavors that never open for the faint hints of raspberry chambord fruity brightness to shine. 

A fine line up of Bourgueil wines, worth experiencing each and every one, but if you had to pick just one. The Bretéche is special.  

Expect a smattering of posts coming over the next few weeks as I recoup from a couple of long weeks of slinging organic produce and wine here in Vacationland, while also attending a mind blowing tasting in Massachusetts, organizing a few of my own here in Maine and taking a much deserved week off to enjoy the garden, cellar and my wonderful family! 

Thanks as always for stopping by and keep foraging those shelves for dusty forgotten gems and fresh off the boat ferments!

Three from Bourgueil.

 

Staying in the cabernet franc frame of mind with the current deep dive into the Loire Project. After a few heat waves of sipping rose and more daquiris it was time to sit by an afternoon firepit and taste through a small grouping of Bourgueil producers. 

the Line Up

Domaine de la Chanteleuserie Cuvee Beauvais 2023

Y. Amirault Cote 50 2022

Domaine de la Cotelleraie Pigeur Fou 2020

My Thoughts & the Results...

                       Dom de la Cotelleraie Pigeur Fou 2020 (92pts)                             

Aromas of tomato leaf, blackberry, apple skins, crushed blueberries, plums and a herbaceous violet, lavender, floral nuance. 

Palate is fruit forward on the front end with some glimpses of mineral rich composted earth, wild strawberry, raspberry, blueberry and violets all wrapped up in a bright quenching acidity that builds as the flavors evolve but keeps balanced by a fleshy apple backbone.

Great overall depth and movement. Comparable to that person you didn't quite think was your kind of person at first, but after a lil small talk and finding some common ground, they end up leaving you with an intimate connection that deepens your understanding of life and opens you to a unique perspective that you find yourself craving when you are apart.

 Domaine de la Chanteleuserie Cuvee Beauvais 2023 (88pts)

Aromas kick off spicy like smoked paprika but alluring soft raspberry jam notes work its way from the crowd and exclaims this has much fruit to contend with along with nuances of rosemary, cedar, well composted earth, eucalyptus & green unroasted coffee beans.

On the palate this wine shows balance. Yes balance and harmony with blood orange acidity swirling through layers of strawberry compote, ripe brooding raspberry, as soft herbal earthiness emerges from the fruit with hints of poblano and lingering tarragon accents.

This wine shows clear intentions and creates a friendly inviting dialogue, it reveals itself as a great companion but never quite dives into deep conversation. That acquaintance that asks you how you're doing but kind of drifts off when you begin to answer.  

 

 Yannick Amirault Cote 50 2022 (87pts)

             Aromas of cranberry sauce, woodchips, soft earthy dried peppers creating some underlying pyrazines, fleshy bing cherry, red jelly candy and raspberry jam.

The palate is soft and evolves starting with some silky red fruits, rolling into an herbal midpalate that balances out the flavors with primary notes of raspberry coulis and earthy cranberry, all rolling into a long fruity finish that honestly reminds me of black raspberry ice cream with sprinkles.

A soft and unassuming wine that is persistent but cordial. Waltzing through the palate like its danced this dance over and over, never missing a step but also failing to challenge the status quo.

A great line up, paired nicely with a day of burning some blow downs and tending to the garden while grilling some sausage and veggies, capping the evening off with some classic campfire s'mores. 

Im finding lots of variation from producer to producer but not as much glaring differences from appellation to appellation,  at least on the cabernet franc side of the project. I will start the conversation of observations by saying I have found Bourgueil to be a bit more extracted in fruit and density than the offerings from Chinon and Saumur.  This may also be attributed to riper vintages, which is another factor that I have been trying to focus on and pay attention to, but also seems a bit inherent in all of the Bourgueil selections thus far.

With my cabernet franc bottles dwindling down in the cellar and a special cab franc blind tasting that I will be attending on the horizon, I would expect to see a few more cabernet franc posts coming soon as I try to gain as much insight and experience to bring to the tasting.

Stop and Blind the Rosés.

As the spring weather transitions into summer, the new vintages of 2024 rosés are blossoming into my glass and out of the garden. Seemed like an apt time to open a trio of this years German offerings from some of my favorite producers! 

the Line Up

Seehof Pinot Noir Rosé 

Von Winning Pinot Noir Rosé 

Kruger Rumpf Pinot Noir Rosé 

(all 2024 vintage)

My Thoughts and the Results...

VON WINNING PINOT NOIR ROSE (90pts)

Aromas of spicy berry, deep floral essence, watermelon, summer berry, citrus blossom and a touch peppery arugula or wrinkled cress.

Palate has a juicy summer berry backbone with glimpses of herbal and citrus glimpses as the flavors evolve in the glass.Watermelon rind, citrus oils, unripe peach, sage, honeysuckle, tart golden raspeberry.

Lengthy evolving palate with all the hallmarks of a delicious pinot based rosé. Focused acidity, layered summer fruits and a delicate persistent finish.

KRUGER RUMPF PINOT NOIR ROSE (88pts)

Touch of gassy bubble on the pour. Aromas are white tea, orange blossoms, wildflower honey, raspberry leaf and earthy cherry pits and some wet slate.

Palate is soft and supple on the front end with notes of cantaloupe, wild strawberry, orange pith and sage. Touch of prickle on the tongue that livens the front end and refreshing acidity that draws out the finish nicely with lingering stonefruit, sage and lingering minerality that weaves through the bitter melon rind finish.

SEEHOF PINOT NOIR ROSE (87pts)

Inviting aromas of citrus oils, wild strawberry, green rhubarb and white flowers.

Palate follows the nose nicely with focused summer berry fruit that evokes nuances of smarties candy, cherry skins, earthy blueberry, elderflowers, flowering thyme, nectarine that all harmonize in a cohesive easy drinking with nice structure, refreshing acidity and lingering herbal accents.

A pleasure to sip each and everyone over a couple days and honestly, I would highly recommend trying them all. Also, yes summer and rosé go hand and hand, but please do not put them away like your white pants when labor day rolls around. Rosé is great year round and it is such a versatile wine that bridges the red/white divide and accompanies food and conversation with the best of them! 

Happy Summer 2025... stay tuned for more as we explore, forage, sip and share!

Into the Land of Bourgueil.

Ok, getting back on track for the Loire Project here. I know I had been teasing Savienerre for my next region as I jumped through the different appellations of Anjou. Well forget that, after a few cool rainy nights and a late night accompanied by a friend that was curious about cab franc, I derailed that plan and cracked into some offerings from Bourgueil.

( a general view of Bourgueil from wikipedia)

Much like Chinon, Bourgueil has a similar breath of soil types ranging from sand, gravel and the classic tuffeau along with some protection from the cold northern winds by surrounding forests. A region located just west of Tours, along the right bank of the Loire. There are many similarities in comparison to Chinon and Saumur, yet while sipping these wines there is an undeniable uniqueness of Bourgueil. That being said, I am still making my way through investigating the characteristics and terroir of this appellation and will share some of my findings, conclusions and insights in part two.

the LINE UP

Catherine Breton Trinch 2023

Domaine de Chevalerie Chevalerie 2019

Domaine du Changeon Les Passagers 2020

Domaine du Bel Air Les Vingt Lieus Dits 2020

You know the drill by now, all four poured blind and assessed, lets get into  the results!

My Thoughts and the Results...

Dom Chevalerie Chevalerie 2019 (90pts)

Aromas of dense cherry, earthy composted forest floor, iron, violets, black olive, plum skin and a touch of tarragon.

Palate is bright upfront with unctuous cherry flesh leading the way into raspberry, plum and some of that underlying earthy compost from the nose. Great balance of acidity and dark fleshy fruits opening up a complex palate with nuances of blood orange, tar, pomegranate, wet moss and wood chips.

Tuned to perfection!

Catherine Breton Trinch 2023 (86pts)

Aromas of raspberry coulis, cherry skins, cherry pie, decaying mulch, licorice and juicy berry.

Palate is fruit forward like the nose with layers of berry compote, cherry skins, apple skins, wild strawberry, peony, sorrel and soft earthy nuances of wet leaves and pine needles tease out the finish as the fruit fades. 

Harmonious integration of earth and fruit with supple weight to ride out the acidity nicely.

 

Domaine du Changeon Les Passagers 2020 (85pts)

Aromas of candied fruit, wood ear mushroom, cedar, flinty graphite, raspberry cordial and nuanced baking spice.

Palate is red fruit forward but leaning into a earthy cranberry, elderberry and dried blueberry. Musty forest floor permeates through the fruit and draws out some green floral herbaceous, along with a touch of bitter tannic bite that grips late and settles out with the earthy fruit.

Nice evolving palate with nice balance but just not enough acidity to shine as bright as I feel this wine could have shined.

Domaine du Bel Air Les Vingt Lieus Dits 2020 (80pts)

Aromas are brettanomyces forward with some barnyard composted red fruits, pine, rosemary, macerated raspberry along with some steamy upturned compost, sandalwood and dried holiday floral Christmas tree potpourri.

Palate is herbaceous, heavy on the pine, spruce and rosemary flavors harnessed slightly by some dark concentrated blackberry, cherry skin and wet composting leaves.

Some redeeming qualities but a bit too Christmassy... honestly it reminds me of opening the attic aged box of Christmas decorations that contains an old yankee candle holiday spice selection. 

Overall a delicious line up and I would be curious to see how the Domaine du Bel Air would hold up on its own, with a nice meal... the good and bad with these single blinds is it really dials in your palate to focus on the differences in each glass, the contrasting elements will always be what stands out and sometimes you have associations or just feel overpowered by its uniqueness. Occasionally that uniqueness can win you over and occasionally it can push you away.

I have a handful of higher tier Bourgueils to dive into soon as the heat of summer and the hustle and bustle associated with it gets well underway. Hot days in the garden have had more glasses of rose' being poured as well as the emergence of daiquiri season, a personal favorite of mine!

Surely I will be posting more as my journey to forage the perfect bottle and glass continues...

Cider Blossoms of the Spring. (Absolem Cider)

As the days grow warmer and the buds break on the humble beginnings of our homestead orchard. My mouth is finally healing from last weeks dental adventures and allowing me to ease back into sipping a few cellar offerings.  As I looked over our Macoun and Roxbury Russet trees I decided it would be a good time to break into a local cider from the ever growing stable Maine has at its disposal. 

Absolem Cider Groundwork 

Single Orchard Cider 2023

 (Pietree Orchard) 

A nice collaboration of two Maine operations, one being Absolem Cider who has slowly emerged as an innovative cider house located in Winthrop, ME. Here they have restored a 150 year old barn where they produced a wide array of ciders and co-ferments with nods to the traditional ciders of the old world and creativity to bring cider heritage into the minds of a younger generations of cider enthusiasts! Honestly I have never been let down by any of their offerings, from flagships to one offs, they are worth seeking out and I look forward to sharing more of my thoughts as I myself work through their library of libations. 

The second part of this collaboration is where these apples were sourced. Pietree Orchards in Sweden, ME. A 100+ acre orchard in the hills of western Maine with views of the White Mountains. Preserved by the King family in 2007 and saving it from becoming a housing development. This orchard had become our families traditional spot to meet up with old friends to pick apples, peaches and berries. Capping each picking event off with a picnic of housemade cider donuts, woodfired pizza and a glass of fresh pressed cider... we are all saddened by its sudden abrupt closing in 2023 and hope the future of this orchard remains a productive agricultural landmark for the local community.

Ok enough backstory, lets get down to what is in our glass and my thoughts on

ABSOLEM GROUNDWORK 2023 (93pts)

Pours a pale golden yellow color with foggy morning haze throughout the glass as tiny bubbles trickle from the glasses epicure.

Aromas are bright, joyful and complex. Layers of unripe pineapple, lavender, crisp fleshy apple, lilac, citrus blossoms and wildflower honey swirl through my nose as un underlying spice mingles with hints of cinamint and flowering wrinkled cress.

The palate follows with a cohesive backdrop of granny smith-esque tartness that unfolds throughout the palate creating a platform for an evolving symphony of flavors. Dried mango, white peach and tangerine oil burst across the palate with a refreshing acidity that flows into a supple fleshy cider mid palate with nice tannic structure and a elegant floral spice that lingers persistently with the tart finish.

Lengthy, contemplative and just plain delicious!

Stay tuned for more ciders and fermented ramblings to come...

Saumur-Champigny... Yeah you know Me!

Continuing through my deep dive into the Loire, which currently involves sipping through the vineyards and vignerons of Saumur-Champigny. I've had the pleasure of tasting two esteemed producers side by side all from the same vintage this past week.

the LINE UP

Chateau Yvonne La Folie 2022

Chateau Yvonne L'Ile Quatre Sous 2022

Domaine des Roches Neuves Terres Chaudes 2022

Domaine des Roches Neuves La Foulee' 2022

Chateau Yvonne

From the Paris Wine Company: 

Located in Parnay, Chateau Yvonne has been surrounded by vineyards since the Middle Ages, when the monk at the Abbaye de Fontevraud brought their influence to the region. The chateau dates to the 16th century, but not much became know of it until 1813, when a local winemaker moved in and began producing wine on site. In 19979, Yvonne and Jean-Francois Lamuniere decided to recreate the abandoned vineyard with the help of Francoise Foucault. In 2007, Mathieu Vallee took over and decided to keep the name Chateau Yvonne, in homage of the incredible work done by the previous owners. Today, the domaine is one of the best producers in Saumur. The estate is composed of 3 hectare of Chenin Blanc and 8 hectares of Cabernet Franc, all of which have been farmed organically since 1997. In 2012 the entire estate was certified biodynamic.

Currently, Matthieu Vallee has taken his place as one of the leading producers in Saumur. The vineyards are spread out amongst 30 small parcels, with many of the best vineyard located in the "La Cote", or the plateau next to the church of Parnay overlooking the Loire River. While much attention has been given to the limestone outcrop of Breze further south, historically these vineyards of "La Cote" have been just as highly regarded. 

Domaine des Roches Neuves

From Kermit Lynch:

Roches Neuves, the esteemed vineyards of Thierry Germain are planted in Saumur and Saumur-Champigny appellations, has rightfully become one of the greatest examples of high achievement in biodynamic vine growing in France. His total dedication to site specific wines produced from Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc, his "parcellaires," has produced some of the most exciting wines in the Loire Valley today.

Thierry relocated to the Loire from Bordeaux in the early 1990s, and soon fell under the influence of his spiritual father, Charly Foucault if Clos Rougeard. Thierry would ultimately convert his entire domaine to biodynamics viticulture, which was the equivalent of his wine epiphany. Listening and observing his plants, allowing them to guide him, revolutionized his way of thinking. Thierry harvests on the relatively early side to preserve fresh, vibrant fruit. His goal is to produce Cabernet Farnc with purity, finesse, and drinkability, while avoiding rusticity, vegetal character and abrasive tannins. Aging takes place in round foudres and demimuids in the frigid tuffeau cellars below his winery in Varrains. 

Lets get into these delicious Cabernet Francs from Saumur-Champigny!

If you have been following this project, I tend to single blind in groups of four and this grouping was such a treat to sip through over a couple days.

My Thoughts and the Results

Domaine des Roches Neuves Terres Chaudes 2022 (92pts)

Aromas of soft supple red fruits, subtle underlying rosemary, upturned rich garden soil, cedar chips, cherry brightness and a touch of apple skin

Palate is focused with layered complexity, soft velvety mouthfeel, harmonious interplay of berry forward red fruit, crunchy tart apple, wild blueberry, rosemary, mint, pine needles and a bold raspberry chambord base.

Elegant yet powerfully complex and thought provoking with a soft underlying herbaceous accents that draw out the fruit and earth components masterfully into a lengthy complex finish.

Domaine des Roches Neuves Cuvee La Foulee 2022 (90pts)

Aromas of macerated blackberries and rocky soil waft through the glass with chalky red fruits, old forest floor earthiness and some woodchip rusticness.

Palate leans more raspberry compote, soft dark cocoa undertones, raisin, tobacco, violets, peony and moss covered rocks.

Great structure with soft earthy tannins weaving through the focused dark summer berry red fruit that evolves into a layered complexity of earthy forest mystery with hints of soft vanilla and warm baking spices lingering.

Chateau Yvonne L'Ile Quatre Sous 2022 (89pts)

Aromas kick off with a bit of horse blanket funkiness that slowly but surely blow off to a point that it becomes just a whisper alongside the red fruits, spicy red licorice, funky deli meats, tomato leaf, blood orange and mint.

Palate expresses some soft pleasing red fruits of dark plum, berry compote alongside some pronounced forest mystery, peppered spice, and rustic tar qualities that lure the ripe yet reserved red fruit backdrop into the midpalate and it all shines a bit brighter towards the finish.

Vibrant complexity with nice movement on teh palate of earthy tannin structure that is balanced by soft velvety red fruits. 

Chateau Yvonne La Folie 2022 (86pts)

Aromas of complex floral and fleshy cherry dominate the nose as it evolves in the glass and allows access to underlying notes of cider funk, thyme, wet leaves, moss and a slight acrid burnt nuttiness.

Palate is a bit more simple than the aromas hinted at but still pleasantly soft and accessible.  There is a bit of funky complexity that rides through the life of the wine but a bit more on the acrid funky cider nuances that don't really provoke much nuance or thoughtfulness.

Reserved and shy, touch simplistic overall. 

Another great line up from Saumur-Champigny with only a choice bottle or two left for the final assessments as the project winds through the Loire from appellation to appellation. Currently finishing up with the broader region of Anjou, I believe my next rabbit hole may take us up to the north bank of the river, to a region that is the opposite of Saumur-Champigny. 

Where we are headed, I have hinted at previously, and its also home to the only Grand Cru appellation in all the Loire. Unlike Saumur-Champigny who grows 100% Cabernet Franc, here you won't find any red grapes as Chenin Blanc rules the rows. It's known for some exceptionally age worthy sweet and dry wines and is home to some of Loire's' founding biodynamic vignerons! Stay tuned... as wine show season wraps up and I finally tend to a major tooth issue that was ebbing and flowing through the last month or so of tasting. I may have to take a weekend off but have no fear, much more of the Loire Project is coming your way along with some smatterings of the most recent spirits that have been hitting my glass as well as an upcoming post about my favorite pink wines currently hitting the market!